There are so many new anti-ageing products and treatments available these days, you can be forgiven for finding it very confusing.
Here’s everything you need to know…
1. Aesthetic Practitioners
These can be dermatologists or medical doctors who administer rejuvenating procedures like Botox, fillers, peels, face and body enhancing without surgery. The best procedure for you will be discussed during an assessment and often a combination of treatments will be suggested.
Dr Alek Nickolic of Aesthetic Facial Enhancement practices in Cape Town and London, says that with new techniques it’s possible to reshape the face without surgery.
2. Botox
This has been around for a long time now without side effects, and nobody seems to hide the fact that they have Botox regularly. Botox is an injection that’s used for deep lines (like frown lines on the forehead and deeper lines around the eyes, or those down the sides of the mouth). Botox is now being used to lift certain areas of the face, like the corners of the mouth and the tip of the nose and the eyebrows. It freezes the muscle, giving a smooth look that lasts for 4-8 months. Costs are based on how many vials are used.
3. Mesotherapy
A series of minute needles make micro injections into the skin’s surface. What this does is allow creams to penetrate deeper into the lower levels of the skin, making them more effective. It also helps with the production of collagen and elastin (the fibres that keep the skin firm).
It may not sound it, but it’s not really painful and it’s a great skin rejuvenating and wrinkle treatment. It’s used to improve the skin’s moisture, firmness, elasticity and gives a healthier, brighter look to the skin.
4. Microdermabrasion
Is a salon treatment with no downtime that’s a bit like ‘sandblasting’ the skin to create a smoother surface.
5. Fillers
Fillers are used to plump out fine lines and wrinkles with products like Restylane, Perlane, Juvederm, and the latest, Evolence, which lasts for about a year to 18 months. Fillers work wonders around the mouth to fill out lines, as well as on the forehead and deep ridges under the eyes. They can also be used for lines around the neck area.
6. Skin Resurfacing
It’s the latest buzzword, and there are many ways to treat prematurely-aged skins – from peeling kits you can do at home, to deeper chemical and peels which must be administered by an aesthetic practitioner. What they all have in common is removing the dry surface layers of the skin to reveal brighter, more even skin, while also boosting cell renewal, improving elasticity, firmness and smoothing fine lines and wrinkles. Success depends on the type and strength of the option you choose.
7. Peels
Their performance depends on strength and formulation. For example, you will find them weaker in home peeling kits or spa facials, and stronger in the ones you would have done at a dermatologist. If you are going the spa route, it’s normally recommended to have a course of peeling treatments over a six-week period (your therapist will advise you on this). They have a rejuvenating effect and work wonders on pigmentation, open pores and acne scarring – evening out the texture and giving radiance. It costs around R350 per session and there is no real downtime; sometimes the skin may appear a little red. The number of peels and the period in-between will depend on the condition of your skin.
Remember! Any type of peel leaves the skin more sensitive to the sun, so always apply an SPF afterwards. Deeper peels are better left until winter, where there is less chance of being out in the sun.
8. Chemical Peels
Salicylic Acid, Alpha Hydroxy and Glycolic Acids are generally considered chemical peels.
9. Home Peels
Estée Lauder, Thalgo, Willa Krause and Elizabeth Arden all have at-home versions.
10. Salon Peels
- iS clinical – available at Skin Renewal Clinics, visit www.skinrenewal.co.za for your nearest clinic.
- Regim-a – visit www.regima.com or call 011 6152869 for your nearest stockist.
- Charlotte Rhys spa – visit www.charlotterhys.com for your nearest stockist.
- PrioriI – call 011 486 4904 for your nearest stockist.
note: Peels should not be used on patients who are using Roaccutane, have rosacea, eczema, or on ethnic skins.
11. Lasers
Lasers give amazing rejuvenating results and the downtime depends on which type your aesthetic practitioner selects for you. The machines use controlled heat via light, pulsed light and radio frequency, and each one deals with specific problems and at varying levels of the skin.
Ablative lasers are the peeling lasers that resurface the skin, while Fractionated lasers (like Fraxel) give the same results but are less invasive as they are given as a course of treatments. They are used for sun damage, prematurely aged skins, lines, open pores and scarring.
According to Dr Alek Nickolic, the most advanced technology is the Matrix RF, a combination of light and bi-polar radiofrequency. He believes it surpasses other lasers in that it is safer, more versatile and improves pigmentation, wrinkles, stretch marks and scars, while tightening and lifting the skin.
12. IPL (intense pulse light)
Is ideal for treating age spots, pigmentation and broken capillaries. There is no downtime.
13. Thermal Lasers
Lasers like Titan and Thermage work on a deeper level, and use machines that offer more intense radio frequency heat to tighten and firm the skin. Used on more mature skins for areas like the jawline, neck and forehead. These can be more painful and expensive.
14. Led (light therapy rejuvenation)
The energy used is much the same as laser but on a less invasive wavelength. The treatment is quick as you only need to be under a series of coloured lights for about 10 minutes, plus it’s inexpensive. Blue is very good for acne, while red is more stimulating. Yellow is best for treating inflammation.
15. Cosmeceuticals
A blend of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients that enhance efficacy. Not many are sold over the counter as you need expert advice to find the correct formula.
16. Sirtuins
Naturally found in the body, their job is to repair damaged cells.
- Estée Lauder Time Zone Line and Wrinkle Reducing Créme, R455
- Avon Anew Ultimate Age Repair Cream, R340
17. Hyaluronic Acid
Acts like a sponge to hold moisture and keep the skin hydrated.
- Eucerin Hyaluron Filler Day Cream, R259.99
- L’Oreal Derma Genesis Day Cream, R169.95
18. Antioxidants
Protect cells from day-to-day environmental stresses that lead to lines and wrinkles.
- Neutrogena Anti-Oxidant Age Reverse Day Lotion, R159.95
- Africology Anti-oxidant Serum, R460
19. Idbenone
is a potent anti-ageing ingredient that has a protective & revitalising effect on the skin.
20. Nanotechnology
This technology has led to a real breakthrough in creating miniscule molecules that help active ingredients penetrate the deeper levels of the skin.
- L’Oreal Revitalift Double Lifting Cream, R189.95
- Lancôme Régergie Morpholift Nuit RARE Overnight Repositioning and Lifting Cream, R965
21. Bioxlift
Stimulates the production of collagen and improves the cells’ ability to hold the collagen network together to lift and firm the skin.
- Nivea Visage Expert Lift Anti-Sagging System Range, from R99.99 to R194.99
22. Genomics
Scientists have discovered that as your skin ages, it has a different gene signature from that of
younger skin. These new creams have been formulated to help change this pattern to keep skin performing at an optimal level.
- Lancôme Genifique Youth Activator Serum, R865
- Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex, R575
23. Ceremides
Boost the natural collagen, elastin and protein network, helping plump up the skin’s surface.
- Elizabeth Arden Ceremide Plump Perfect Ultra Lift and Firm Moisture Cream, R525
24. Retinoids
These are Vitamin A derivatives that have a rejuvenating effect – they smooth out fine lines and wrinkles and even out skin tone (excellent for photo-damaged skins).
- RoC Retin-Ox Wrinkle Filler Day and Night Cream, R365
- Skin Doctors Superceutical Facelift Cream, R795
25. Peptides
Peptides are chains of amino acids that act as the ‘building blocks’ of the skin. They have the ability to send messages to each other to produce healthy collagen and elastin fibres.
- Uriage Peptilys Cream, R285.95
- Olay Regenerist Daily 3 Point Treatment Cream, R299.99
Feature: Elaine Nixon-Campbell. Photos: Shutterstock; Getty.
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