When the countryside beckons, take a drive over Bothmanskloof Pass to artistic Riebeek Kasteel – gathering wines as you go…
The Route
Bothmanskloof Pass is part of the regional R46 route between Western Cape towns Malmesbury and Riebeek Kasteel, therefore it is no hidden treasure or detour, but this stretch of road (some 16km in total) does reward the driver with a fair deal of impressive sights. Even before you hit the pass the route starts to reveal its magical appeal – I remember once driving the route when, as the thick clouds parted and the Cape drizzle lifted, I saw a rainbow ending in the canola fields beneath. It was the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow! In winter there are wheatfields lush and emerald green, in summer the harvested fields rest and the towering mountains in the distance become prominent.
After passing silos and the small town of Malmesbury, the scenery starts to change in preparation for what awaits behind the pass. As the stretch of road cuts through the landscape, and folds around Kasteelberg, you are momentarily flanked by towering hills, and then, like curtains at an old cinema, the scenery parts to reveal a valley that has been likened to Tuscany. Olive groves, glistening vineyards and a town basking in the sun suddenly greet you. You have arrived.
Bothmanskloof Pass
Not much has been written about the pass, but certain wineries and establishments mention some of the history in their official documents. Patched together, the snippets make for an interesting tale.
According to these records, Pieter Cruythoff and Pieter Meerhof, scouts for Jan van Riebeek, and his party stood atop this pass when they surveyed the Riebeek Valley for the first time. (At Riebeek Cellars an export range of wines is made in the early surveyors’ honour.) They crossed the pass looking for gold – the city of gold, Monomotapa – but found the Riebeek Valley instead which, with its agricultural potential, did indeed deliver its pound of wealth. Meerhof winery, standing at the pinnacle of this pass, is aptly positioned as its name pays homage to surveyor Meerhof. Incidentally, he was also married to the Khoi woman Eva Krotoa, apparently an ancestral union to which many Afrikaners can be traced back.
First stop: Kloovenburg Vineyards
You can’t miss the kraal-like white walls of this winery. It is strikingly beautiful and turning left onto this winery’s premises occurs almost naturally. It is owned by the Du Toits and is a fun-filled family-run operation. Husband Pieter looks after the wines (and makes a pretty darn good Shiraz) while wife Annalene conjures up the most delectable olive products – from beauty treatments to edible treats. Both wines and olive products are available at the tasting room, which makes this an all-inclusive stop if you want to sample what the valley has to offer (tel 022 448 1635).
Second stop: Short Street in town
Make sure that you put aside ample time to enjoy Short Street in the centre of town. At the Wine Kollective you will find wines from boutique cellars in the area, all sold at cellar-door prices. Owner Anton Espost also allows visitors to taste some of the wines over weekends (tel 082 776 9366).
Right next door to the Wine Kollective you’ll find Bar-Bar Black Sheep, a delightful restaurant that is one of the town’s most loved eating spots. Settle in for lunch while enjoying some Santa Cecilia Chenin Blanc matched with chef Mynhardt Joubert’s delicious cuisine (tel 022 448 1031). Or, if you are in the mood for some Italian flair, head to Auntie Pasti (tel 022 448 1331).
Third stop: Riebeek Cellars
One of the best value performers overall in the Best Value Wine Guide 2010, Riebeek Cellars rewards the traveller with wines at fill-your-boot prices.
Final stop for the waery traveller: Cafe Felix
Those who don’t like to rush back to town after a languid lunch (and we suggest you don’t), should book a room at Café Felix.
This boutique guesthouse is sure to appeal to the romantic in you, and with an on-premises restaurant you can carry on enjoying the tranquillity of the valley – just like when the first explorers crossed Bothmanskloof Pass (tel 022 448 1170).
Taken from the December 2010 Issue of Wine Magazine
Words by Jeanri-Tine van Zyl
| More info on the town of Riebeek West | More info on the Swartland area |
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