Text and photographs: Paul Nielsen. Article from the January 2013 issue of Ride Magazine.
Mauritius isn’t all about cocktails, beaches and lounging poolside. In fact, there’s a far more adventurous side of the island.
Mention Mauritius and most people will conjure up images of white beaches, crystal clear blue waters, idyllic sunsets, world-class resorts and sun-drenched holidays. That’s a pretty accurate summation, but in fairness Mauritius has a little something extra to offer for those who want more than soaking up the sun on a hotel lounger. This is an island with a worldwide reputation for being a mini heaven on Earth. The close proximity to the east coast of South Africa makes it a popular destination for South Africans.
It’s also become popular with expats enjoying the favourable tax rate and superb standard of living. Their interest in outdoor sports and eagerness to be active has slowly but surely generated a menu of weekend multi-sport events, which has filled up the local calendar.
My journey to paradise started with a comfortable four-hour flight from OR Tambo International aboard Air Mauritius. I arrived fresh and relaxed and ready to explore the wonders of the island. My goal: to uncover what additional hidden treasures Mauritius had up its sleeve and what it could provide for someone with a sense of adventure and love of the outdoors who enjoys his riding.
Off-road action
The first item on my agenda was tackling the Mauritius Coast2Coast MTB race, now in its second year. The brainchild of CRA Events (an events company that local businessmen/sports enthusiasts Chris Desjardins and Ado Vallet spearhead), it takes place over three days and aims to expand on the growing number of MTB enthusiasts on the island, and to attract foreign cyclists to its shores. The total distance is 200 kilometres, with participants coming from Reunion, South Africa and Mauritius, while the odd European entrant also joins in on the fun. Nearly 50 two-rider teams competed in this year’s event.
Accommodation consisted of tents transported along with our bags to each overnight stop. The terrain was very different to that in South Africa and added challenging technical variety to the route. Loose volcanic rock is not the best surface to fall on. The route was interspersed with small sections of tar as it crossed 17 private estates and a few villages where the smell of incense filled the air. The first day was extremely tough with plenty of portages and gnarly climbing sections to contend with. Humidity was added to the mix and we all ended up drinking more than expected.
Littered with stretches of winding singletrack and jeep tracks leading past large rows of sugar cane, the route was fast at times, but slippery thanks to heavy rain in the preceding days. After 65 kilometres, the lush surrounds of the Ferney Sugar Mill greeted riders, as did sunny conditions and a great atmosphere in the race village.
The second and third days led riders up the east coast and finally to the finish at Anse la Raie (a few kilometres from the main tourist attraction of Grand Baie) in the north. Rolling hills, dense jungle and long stretches of district roads were the order of each day. The overnight stop was the old slave location of Belle Mare, with its stone-cast walls creating an impressive backdrop for the evening’s dinner and prize-giving.
Permanent trails
Mountain bikers of all skill levels have been struggling to find safe and decent tracks to ride and train on in Mauritius. In fact, events such as the Coast2Coast MTB have been their only access to good mountain-bike tracks. Such tracks have not always been open to the public as many of the routes cross over private estates and have not been adequately signposted. Thankfully, with the growing interest in the sport, there are plans afoot to establish a network of over a dozen permanent mountain-biking tracks in various key areas of Mauritius. This should provide a kick-start for the further growth of mountain biking on the island. It will also open the doors for the many tourists who have started recognising the benefits of a holiday that combines an element of adventure and fitness with lounging by the hotel pool. A five-year plan is in place with the aim of creating two to three circuits a year. The pilot project will see the first circuit rolled out towards the end of January 2013.
The potential is endless and, with the right backing, the profile of Mauritius on the world MTB circuit will be raised and future world-class events will be on offer. The country recently hosted the African MTB Champs and received much praise from those who competed.
For the bulk of my stay, I was based at LUX Grand Gaube, situated on the northern coast of the island. The service was exceptional and nothing was too much for the staff at the hotel, right down to copious quantities of their house coffee blend, provided by Deluxe Coffee Works, a boutique roaster based in Cape Town.
Most Mauritius hotels now have bikes on offer for those who feel like exploring outside the boundary walls. And there’s plenty to explore. Mauritius is rich in history dating back to the arrival of the Dutch in 1598. The sugar trade was once a major source of income and sugar cane fields and mills still dot the landscape. The Sugar Museum is well worth a visit. Other activities on the island include the growing sports of kitesurfing, stand-up paddling and trail running as well as excellent golfing facilities, Hindu temples, fishing expeditions and shops stocking major European fashion brands. All this means there is plenty to do with time not spent on the bike, and lots to entertain partners, friends and little ones.
Route with a view
The second major item on my itinerary was the Deutsche Bank Mauritius Cycle Tour. In its 12th year, the 50-kilometre and 100-kilometre road races cater for all levels of fitness and attract an annual entry of more than 1 200 cyclists. This is Mauritius’ equivalent of the Cape Argus Pick n Pay Cycle Tour and is hosted by CRA events along with the title sponsors. All proceeds go to local charities on the island.
The race starts in the south near the airport and winds up the east coast to the finish at Mont Choisy Beach in the north. Windy conditions greeted the riders at the start and although the route is flat and fast, any hopes of breaking the previous race record were put to bed. A strong Elite category boasted the likes of Arran Brown (MTN Qhubeka), Ashleigh Moolman-Pasio (Momentum Toyota) and her husband Carl Pasio (RSA Web). Arran raced the event in 2010 and the South African riders had been invited across by the organisers.
The pace at the front was relentless and after facing strong crosswinds in the first 15 kilometres, Arran opened up a gap and never looked back. A tailwind was predicted for the latter 50 kilometres of the race and the rolling terrain meant that it would be very tough to chase down a breakaway. The route wound its way along the stunning vistas of the eastern coastal route, passing small fishing villages, people on their way to worship and locals getting on with their normal Sunday activities. Snaking through dense forest-lined roads, passing the array of five-star beach resorts, white beaches and the endless sugar cane fields, this is a route that can be savoured for its stunning beauty and diversity. I am not too sure that the lead-riders took this all in, but those taking it more gently were spoilt.
After Arran’s break, a small group of eight riders kicked up the pace to fight for the remaining places. Arran held on to his lead and claimed a solo maiden victory at the event. Ashleigh worked hard at the front of the chase group and managed to inch across the line ahead of the local Mauritian champion to also claim her first victory. Both champions promised to return should the opportunity arise. Many bruised, battered but satisfied cyclists came across the line ready to enjoy the post-race atmosphere at the finish, which was extremely well supported by the local community. I hope to be back for more, and I know I’m not alone in that sentiment.
Key contacts
CRA Events Management
http://craworldeventsmanagement.com/
Air Mauritius
www.airmauritius.com
Mauritius Tourism Board
http://www.tourism-mauritius.mu/
Mauritius Stand Up Paddling
http://stand-up-paddie-mauritius.com/
Beach Cottages, Dive Centre and Kite School
www.kuxville.com
LUX* Resorts
www.luxislandresorts.com
Kitesurfing School on the East Coast
www.mauritius-kitesurf.com
