From back breakouts to chronic acne, get your skin to stop behaving like a teen’s.
Adulthood is not the time to be worrying about acne. Puberty is long gone, so why are the pimples still breaking out? We consulted with experts on this condition, which is more common than we’d believe. In the past decade adult acne has been rising and has come to be known as a common skin disorder and not just a teen skin problem. While it is estimated that 85 percent of teens experience acne, eight percent of 25-34 year olds and three percent of 35-44 year olds will also suffer from it.
Adult acne has been found to be more persistent and severe than teenage acne, with increased sensitivity…
Acne can be attributed to a variety of factors, the most common being genetics; excess sebum or oil in your sebaceous glands; bacteria in your follicles; or hormonal imbalances, like polycystic ovarian disease. Durban-based specialist dermatologist Dr Imraan Jhetam says that certain medication can induce acne, adding that poor or incorrect skincare, and a diet high in fatty foods are all contributing factors.
New research published in the last two years has added weight to the theory that diet plays a significant role in acne. Controlled studies in 2005, for example, suggest that reducing the intake of sugar and refined carbohydrates may reduce acne symptoms.
“The odd pimple is normal,” says Jhetam, as they are very much lifestyle-, stress- and hormone-related. However, the frequency and severity of the breakouts can be influenced by the above factors.
Lauren Du Preez, national training manager for Environ, says you only need to be concerned about acne when your skin starts showing signs of excessive amounts of pimples that may be represented by inflammation, puss, blackheads or blind pimples.
The bad news is that adult acne has been found to be more persistent and severe than teenage acne, with increased sensitivity and consistent redness. Another downside is that the rate of healing is slower than that of teenage skin, due to decreased cell turnover in mature skin.
“Although an acne condition is associated with excess oil and breakouts, the root of adult acne is due to dead cells blocking the hair follicle, disturbing normal epidermal processes,” explains Marijke Wienekus, educator from Dermalogica. Natural cell exfoliation takes place to help renew your skin, but a condition called retention hyperkeratosis occurs in adult acne skin where the cell turnover is four to five times faster than normal skin leading to clogged pores, which prevents the sebum from escaping from the glands and resulting in acne.
The primary aggravating factor leading to adult acne, is chronic stress. Increased stress levels lead to heightened hormonal levels, which can contribute to an excessive oil production. “Adult acne within the female population is on the rise due to increased responsibilities,” explains Wienekus. Stress causes adrenal gland stimulation which raises testosterone levels and Cortisol levels within the skin. The increase of oil in the sebaceous gland makes your skin oilier, while the increase of Cortisol triggers hyperpigmentation.
Another contributing factor to adult acne is the need to constantly ‘pick’ or ‘squeeze’ your spots, which adds to the bacteria on your skin, resulting in the formation of inflammatory marks and cuts.
Blitz the Zits
To treat adult acne, most experts recommend using products that are high in vitamin A. Medicated skin care products are available on the market from reputable cosmetic brands to keep your skin clean and comfortable. A big mistake most adults make is to use teen acne skincare products on their skin – a big no-no as the products not only aggravate the skin, they cause it to dehydrate, too, which in turn leads to wrinkles; now that is double trouble! …sometimes over-cleansing can actually aggravate the acne.
“You should definitely moisturise, but choose a cream that is oil-free and a face wash that does not make your skin feel stripped and dry,” suggests Jhetam. She adds that if you’re using medicated creams, you should avid using toner as it will make your skin more sensitive. Often, people with acne may perceive their skin to be dirty, so they think the more they wash it, the cleaner and quicker it will clear up, but, “this is not the case, as sometimes over-cleansing can actually aggravate the acne,” explains Jhetam.
Banish Bacne
And if acne on your face isn’t bad enough, some adults also experience it on their chest and back (bacne): “The highest concentration of oil glands are on your forehead, nose, chin, upper chest and upper back, so this is where acne develops more commonly,” says Jhetam. She points out that in adult females, there is a tendency for acne to appear on the jawline and neck area as well, as these are hormone-sensitive areas. Rule of thumb is that if your acne is over a large area then oral medication, or specialised treatments, will be more effective than topical skincare.
Peels and IPL treatments are also successful in treating acne, but your best bet is to visit your dermatologist. If your acne can be cleared up with medicated skincare alone, she will prescribe or recommend one to you. In more severe cases, however, dermatologists may prescribe a topical medicated cream, oral or topical antibiotics, or even the Pill to help rebalance your hormones.
Dermatology experts also advise taking 100g of zinc a day as an effective deterrent to acne. Add foods that are rich in zinc to your diet such as pumpkin seeds, pecan nuts and wholewheat. And if the change in diet doesn’t work on your acne, at least it’ll work on your waistline!
Anti-Acne Fixers
Dermalogica MediBac Clearing Skin Wash, R125 for 50ml, is a non-stripping cleanser that helps control breakouts and excess surface oils. The MediBac Clearing range treats adult acne by using technology that addresses the specific factors.
DermaFix Dermabright PhotoAgeing, Pigmentation, Acne, R395 for 50ml, contains Mandelic Acid and combines antibacterial and skin-lightening properties with alpha hydroxy acid to help treat acne and minimise photo-ageing.
Environ B-Active Sebugel-A, R102 for 30ml, is to be used as part of the B-Active range. It contains a low dosage of vitamin A and tea tree oil to smooth away dead layers and disinfect the skin.
RoC Purif-Ac Blemish Correcting Emulsion, R190 for 40ml, helps reduce spots and blackheads for a clear, matte skin. Not only does it have a purifying action, it also reduces sebum secretion and helps regulate bacterial production.
Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy Skin Resurfacing Cream, R695 for 50ml, contains a potent combination of lactic, glycolic and salicylic acids that provide a powerful, yet mild exfoliation to speed up cell renewal and remove dead skin cells. It’s an effective anti-ageing cream that is gentle on delicate facial skin.
Text by Candice Tehini. Article taken from the March 2010 edition of Longevity.
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