Just beyond Swellendam the Breede River eases itself past hillsides dotted with aloes and rare renosterveld shrubs.
Tucked away above a bend are the chalets at Lang Elsie’s Kraal with views over the river and the perfect swimming spot below. If you get up at first light to cast a line into the water, you might spot a rival: a Cape clawless otter that bobs up to take a cautious look around. Later in the day settle on your private wooden deck. In the setting sun the aloes flame bright, signal fires to the countless stars that follow as night falls.
Down by the river: Nothing compares to swimming in the wild on a hot summer’s day. There are steps into the river at the rest camp and the day-visitor area. Bring your own kayak to paddle along the quiet reaches. Fish for carp, barbel, bream and mullet but first get a freshwater fishing permit (R45 for a year) from reception. Endemic species must be released, exotic fish can be taken.
Get your game on: The park has four short hiking trails and one mountain-bike route, but visitors are free to walk or cycle along 22#km of dirt road in the park. Look for bontebok, mountain zebra, grey rhebok, bat-eared foxes and geometric tortoises.
Bring along: Binoculars for birding. There are more than 200 species in the park and sitting around the rest camp you could see southern tchagra, acacia pied barbet and cardinal, olive and Knysna woodpeckers.
Get comfy: Light and airy wooden chalets have their own kitchen, bathroom, braai and wraparound deck with river views. The chalets are open-plan and suited to two adults or a family of four. Two of the units are adapted for people with special needs. Chalet 7 has the best view, chalet 4 offers the most privacy. Excellent campsite with grass stands, electricity and modern ablution block.
Rates: R705 for a chalet (R72 an additional child). Campsites for up to six people R180 with electricity, R145 without. Base rate is for two people. It’s R48 for an additional adult, R24 a child. Day visitors R18, Wild Cardholders free.
The scenic route: The park lies halfway between Cape Town and George on the N2. From Cape Town it’s a two-and-a-half hour drive past pretty fields of wheat and canola. Keep an eye out for blue crane along the way. From George the road passes the historic towns of Heidelberg and Riversdale.
MAKE TIME: To walk up Aloe Hill and drink in the view over the river to the Langeberge.
DON’T EXPECT: A big game safari. Bontebok is all about appreciating the little things.
CONTACT: Park 028-514-2735, Central Reservations 012-428-9111 website.
This article was taken from the Summer issue of Wild Magazine.
| More info on the town of Swellendam | More info on the Cape Overberg |
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