Bobbing about on a donkey cart is more fun than I’d ever imagined.
I discovered this on the return trip from Heuningvlei, a charming village nestled deep in the Cederberg. To get there we hiked from the top of the Pakhuis Pass outside Clanwilliam, but you could arrange to travel by donkey cart both ways.
We left Pakhuis Pass early to avoid the heat. After three hours with not a soul in sight, we came upon Heuningvlei, a village with friendly people, surrounded on all sides by mountains. Suddenly, the landscape where we had struggled to find cover from the sun became lush with ample shade.
It’s a community where the moment you start speaking to people, stories open up. The settlement was started in 1825 when a Khoisan woman married a Dutchman called Okhuis living in the area. The Okhuis family still live in the community, away from the city noise but close enough to get supplies.
Early the next morning we headed back. Five donkeys waited for us outside. Devon Veloen is the donkey master, a shy man who every so often talked to the donkeys, encouraging them to go faster, or tugged on the reins to bring them to a halt.
When the donkeys sped up we all smiled. It was like a rollercoaster ride for children. No other people were around and except for birdcalls and insects humming there was no other sound. We passed the raised rock platform where we looked over the valley and the cave where we escaped from the sun.
Back at the Pakhuis Pass I didn’t have to wonder why I felt so at ease. The people, the donkeys and the lifestyle in this valley explain it all.
“I really enjoyed the hospitality of Abram and Ryno from the tourism team, and the lovely ice-cold lolly and swim to refresh us after the hike.” – Tamlin Wightman, Cape Town
Why go
To enjoy a donkey cart ride and meet locals who welcome and prepare meals for you in their homes. There are also more than 100 bird species, and trees like the Clanwilliam cedar found nowhere else.
When
The best time to visit is during the cooler months, from April to November.
Working together
All community members contribute to this tourism project. Women take care of food and accommodation while men work as guides and donkey-cart drivers. The project is a joint effort between CapeNature, Heuningvlei, Cederberg Heritage Route, Cederberg African Travel and Clanwilliam Living Landscape Project.
Age limit
There is no age limit. This trail is suitable for the whole family.
Where
Along the N7 from Cape Town, take the Clanwilliam turnoff. Drive straight through town on the Calvinia/Wupperthal Road. About 26 km from Clanwilliam, look out for the Pakhuis Pass on your right-hand side.
Contact
027-482-2444 www.cedheroute.co.za/trials.php
Text by Wild Kate. Photo by Tamlin Wightman. Article taken from the Spring 2010 edition of Wild card magazine.
| More info on the town of Clanwilliam | More info on the Cederberg Region area |
Related Content
