Text: Sarah Isaacs. Articel from the March 2012 issue of Getaway Magazine.
The residents of this unsung hero of the Garden Route describe it as the city for all reasons and indeed draws all sorts of visitors interested in anything from romance to history, beer to sport. Its rich past, glamourous golf courses, hospitable charm and natural beauty means there’s something for everyone.
Formally established in 1811, George started as an outpost for the provision of timber. It grew rapidly, attracting settlers wanting to make a living from forestry. Today, the forests are no less captivating, set on misty slopes and in lush valleys of the Outeniqua Mountains, and boast a rich array of indigenous flora and fauna.
The city itself is a joy to roam; clean and manicured and dotted with 18th-century architecture, museums and restaurants. Some of the world’s most acclaimed golf courses stretch away from the picturesque city centre, opening their doors to the public to enjoy the splendour of beautifully kept fairways.
Farms on the outskirts of the city offer strawberry picking, cheese tasting and beer sampling and everything is so easily accessible that you don’t have to choose just one outing.
The national roads and highways surrounding George are a navigational dream, so you shouldn’t get lost.
What to do
- The Outeniqua Transport Museum at 2 Mission Street isn’t just for petrol-heads. The workshop-style display space boasts a cool collection of steam locomotives and carriages, buses, fire engines and vintage cars, big and shiny enough to bring out the boy-kid in everyone. Entry costs R20 for adults and R10 for kids under 12. Tel 044-801-8289.
- The Outeniqua Power Van recently replaced the well- known Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe, which is no longer in service. The new train is more environmentally friendly and does two-and-a-half-hour excursions through George’s passes to a panoramic viewpoint in the Outeniqua Mountains. Pack a picnic and take the kids on this unique tour along a historical train route. Excursions cost R100 for adults and R80 for kids under 15. Tel 044-801- 8239, cell 082-490-5627, email.
- Outeniqua Farmers Market is making waves in George, attracting hipsters and home-makers alike with an exceptional offering of fresh food, arts, crafts and live music. Owner Deon Mocke set out to create a ‘heart for George’ and ended up with one of South Africa’s leading outdoor markets. Open every Saturday from 08h00 to 14h00. Tel 082-465-2952, email.
- Redberry Farm on Geelhoutboom Road off the R404 is a fun family outing. Strawberry picking, a tea garden, pony and miniature train rides and bubble-ball rides on the dam all makes for a festive atmosphere. Strawberry picking from R15 a tub. Tel 044-870-7123, cell 083-277-7421, email, website.
- Silver Lily Cheese Farm is another spot not far off the R404. Here you can indulge in a free tasting plate of handmade Dutch-style farm cheese or enjoy it with a glass of wine. The Caserio, made from cow’s milk, is the base cheese to which ingredients such as cumin, garlic and chilli are added to create a variety of creamy taste sensations. Tel 044-870-7424, email.
- Misty Meadows Micro-brewery at the Sinksabrug turn-off from the R102 has a rustic country feel and is surrounded by rolling hills and majestic mountains. Buzzard Country Ale is a pure malt lager made with hops from the Outeniqua Pass and barley from the Overberg. Pair it with a burger or wood-fired pizza or purchase a braai-pack from the on-site butcher and use the farm’s braai facilities. Tel 044-876-0464, cell 083- 442-0974, email.
- Herold Wines is on the Montagu Pass, which is the oldest unaltered pass still in use in South Africa. Its location is a treat as you get to enjoy the splendour of an old ox-wagon trail before sitting down to a wine tasting amid the fynbosrich Outeniqua Mountains. Light lunches and a delicious cheese platter are also on offer. Tel 072-833-8223, email, website.
Where to play golf
Framed by the Indian Ocean on one side and the Outeniqua Mountains on the other, Oubaai Golf Course ranks among the world’s most scenic. An Ernie Els signature course, it’s as challenging as it is beautiful and with doors open to the public, anyone can enjoy this coastal test of skill. Tel 044-851-1263, email. Course: 6516 metres (par 72).
With its beautiful grounds, 100-year history and down-to-earth charm, George Golf Club on CJ Langenhoven Street is where the locals play golf. All visitors are welcome, except on Saturday and Wednesday afternoons, which are reserved for club members and affiliated visitors only. Tel 044-873-6116, email. Course: 6162 metres (par 72).
The three courses that make up Fancourt were all designed by Gary Player and live up to their world-class reputation. The Montagu and Outeniqua courses are open to the public while The Links is reserved for members and hotel guests. There are also two pro shops on the premises. Tel 044-804- 0040, email, website.
A Sally Little signature course, Kingswood Golf Estate caters for all golfers, particularly ladies, through a variety of tee positions. Set between Fancourt Links and George Golf Club, it’s at the heart of the Garden Route golf hub. Tel 0861-727- 170, website, email. Course: 6286 metres (par 72).
Where to eat and drink
The Rose on York at 127 York Street is a great breakfast stop. The coffee’s good and the patio is sunlit and spacious. It’s open all day, dishing up pub lunches and draft beer. Cell 076-902-3910.
Nothing beats a lazy lunch at La Rosa Blu, on a rose farm along the N12/N9 to Outdshoorn, just over Outeniqua Pass. Enjoy magnificent scenery from the veranda or dine in one of the creatively decorated dining rooms. The burgers, salads and open ciabatta sandwiches are fresh, seasonal and affordable and the carrot cake is one of the most moist you’re likely to find. Tel 044-886-0042.
A little further down this road is the Roadside Deli. The wood-fired pizzas have earned it a spot in the Garden Route’s top 20 culinary destinations for three years running. You’ll also find padstal classics such as locally produced cheese, farm butter, freshly baked breads and miniature apple crumbles. Hosts Bobby and Ria Sklenarz are as friendly as they are busy, always taking the time to greet the steady influx of customers. Cell 073- 258-4818 or 083-358-9882.
Spoil yourself at Waterside Grill. Although it’s at the Hyatt Regency Oubaai Golf Resort and Spa, it’s open to the public and serves superb charcoal- grilled dishes from an interactive kitchen at the heart of the dining room. The dessert selection, including star anise créme brulée with caramelised pears, is mouthwatering. Food and wine pairings are their specialty. Tel 044-851 -1246.
Kafe Serefe at 60 Courtenay Street is arguably the best value-for-money restaurant in George, with appetisers starting at R28 and mains at R55. The menu includes traditional Turkish dishes such as moussaka as well as more familiar burgers and curries. The meat dishes are succulent and tasty and the blue cheese-stuffed figs wrapped in smoked kudu are a must-have starter. Tel 044-884-1012.
If you’re into Italian comfort food and hospitality, La Locanda at 124 York Street is where you’ll find it. The pastas are simple and flavourful, relying on quality ingredients and tasty combinations. The spaghetti with veal meatballs is scrumptious and the seafood pasta embodies the sea without being overly fishy. Tel 044-874-7803.
Where to stay
* Highlands Lodge is a quiet retreat in Waboomskraal Valley, off the N12/N9. The wooden two- and four-sleeper cabins are engulfed in forest and fynbos, creating a tranquil oasis just 20 minutes from George. Whether lounging at the pool, sitting by the fireplace or taking a drive to the breathtaking viewpoint behind the cabins, you’ll soon forget what stress feels like. Tel 044-886-0045, email, website.
** Acorn Guesthouse is a top-notch B&B within walking distance of York Street’s shops, restaurants and bars. Each room is individually decorated with flair and attention to detail. Tel 044-874-0474, email, website.
***** Hyatt Regency Oubaai Golf Resort and Spa is a luxurious seaside resort boasting all the comforts expected of a five-star establishment. It’s just 10 minutes from George Airport, yet feels otherworldly with its mix of unspoiled coastline, indigenous forest and pristine golfing green. Beyond the golf course, there’s plenty to do, including an eight-kilometre hiking trail, to-die-for spa treatments at Freesia Spa, picnics at the whale viewing deck, three great restaurants and the Golf Hall of Fame and Museum. All this is open to the public. Additional hotel facilities include a swimming pool and kids’ centre. Rooms are spacious with ceiling-to-floor windows letting in natural, warm light and the breakfast buffet is heavenly. Tel 044-851-1234, email oubaai.regency@hyatt.com, oubaai.regency.hyatt.com.
George Tourism Centre, tel 044-801-9295, email, website.
Getting there
From Johannesburg, take the N1 South and once in Bloemfontein take the N9. From the R404 turn-off, take the N12/N9 into George. From Durban and Cape Town, follow the N2 all the way. George Airport is conveniently located on the outskirts of the city, but flights are expensive and available only to and from major cities.
More info on the town of George | More info on the Garden Route area |