Country Strong - Two Acres Tea Room

Country Strong – Two Acres Tea Room

October 31, 2014
Food & Wine, Lifestyle, Publications

Text: Tracy Gielink. Recipes: Kathleen Hornby Walsh. Photographs: Clinton Friedman.

A peaceful respite, two acres tea room stays true to its mantra, “to grow and cook beautifully simple things” by producing the majority of items they plate

Given her impressive résumé, one is likely to be surprised to find Kathleen Hornby Walsh at Two Acres Tea Room. With its country setting, a happy-go-lucky air prevails, and mood and menu are determined by the colour of the leaves on the magnificent trees under which the café flourishes.

Having shrugged off her accounting and teaching qualifications, Kathleen honed her considerable talents under Prue Leith. She trained at her London school and went on to work closely with the culinary doyenne for nine years, first as general manager of Leith’s London and then as new business and development manager of Leith’s UK. Upon returning to SA she was drawn back to her parents’ smallholding in Assagay, where they farmed the indigenous clivia and her dad still operates the on-site nursery.

The forerunner to Two Acres was a humble farm shop that opened in 2005 and served baked goods on the veranda. Kathleen’s ambitions led her to hanker after a more substantial business and it made sense to relocate to the old farmhouse where she opened Two Acres Tea Room in 2010.

“A tea room is an old-fashioned thing. It is really about the trees and the $50-million garden,” she jokes of the beautiful outdoor setting. “We were always having tea under the trees and it took the pressure off by not calling it a restaurant. The concept is to grow what we can. The rule every single day is we need to keep this a farm. If you see mice running across the garden, remember it’s a farm!”

The high volume needed by the eatery means that produce from the garden – anything from beetroot, kale, bok choi, carrots, figs and pineapples to various herbs, chillies and gooseberries – is used for Tea Room specials and old-fashioned principles are applied by preserving and bottling. The garden is tended to organically and nature governs the kitchen’s bounty. Kathleen has inherited green fingers and intends to increase its size and production in the future.

It is all in the detail. Free-range eggs and chickens are sourced from the Midlands and other meat is free range and hormone and antibiotic free. Everything is made from scratch, like the artisan loaf that undergoes a long fermentation, the home-made apricot jam plus muesli, marmalade and a red pepper-and-tomato chutney, which are sold in the shop.

Serendipity has led people to Two Acres Tea Room. Kathleen has allowed her fresh and ethical approach to food to be slowly discovered rather than using it as a marketing tool. Altruistic by nature, she operates the business as a community project by equipping locals with the skills and experience necessary to work in front of house or the kitchen, with two filling the roles of manager and pastry chef. “We are passionate – who are these people, how do we give them skills and how will they spend their journey here happily?”

Kathleen fights fiercely against mediocrity. “Our standards are high because this has much more meaning than opening a coffee shop.”

Two Acres Tea Room, 1 Country Lane, Assagay, KwaZulu-Natal;

031-768-1957; info@twoacres.co.za; facebook.com/TwoAcresTeaRoom

King prawn and tabouleh salad with aubergine and haloumi fritters

Serves 4 EASY 40 mins

The flavour combinations

Fritters

1 aubergine

salt, to taste

100g haloumi

Batter

100g self-raising flour + extra, to dust

30ml (2 tbsp) cornflour

375ml (1 1/2 cups) beer

Tabouleh

handful fresh flat-leaf parsley

45ml (3 tbsp) cracked wheat,

cooked 110g tomatoes, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, peeled and minced

extra virgin olive oil

juice of 1 lemon

salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

16 king prawns, deveined and shelled butter, to fry

olive oil, to fry + extra, to serve

small handful baby rocket leaves, to garnish

How to do it

1. For the fritters, slice the aubergine into 8 thin slices and sprinkle lightly with salt. Place over a cake rack and allow the liquids to drain, 20 minutes. Wash and pat dry. Slice the haloumi finely and make 4 sandwiches by placing a slice of cheese between slices of aubergine. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside.

2. For the batter, combine the flours in a bowl and whisk in the beer until the mixture is smooth and even.

3. For the tabouleh, combine the parsley, cracked wheat, tomatoes, garlic, extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice in a bowl and toss well. Season to taste.

4. In a saucepan over medium-high heat, pan-fry the prawns quickly in a little butter.

5. Lightly dust the aubergine sandwiches with flour, dip in the batter and fry in a little olive oil in a separate saucepan over high heat until golden.

6. To serve, place a spoonful of tabouleh in the centre of each plate and top with an aubergine fritter. Add 4 prawns, drizzle with olive oil and garnish with baby rocket leaves.

Baby marrow, mint, pea and parsley soup with baked ricotta and rocket pesto

Serves 4 EASY 2 hrs 20 mins

The flavour combinations

Soup

30ml (2 tbsp) olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

1 celery stick, finely chopped

15ml (1 tbsp) fennel seeds, crushed to form a powder

zest of 1 lemon

1 bay leaf

100ml white wine

1L (4 cups) chicken stock

100g fresh peas

100g snow peas

handful fresh mint leaves

handful fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

Baked Ricotta

250g ricotta

zest of 1/2 lemon

10ml (2 tsp) marjoram, chopped

1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped

50ml extra virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Pesto

small handful fresh rocket, chopped

30ml (2 tbsp) pine nuts

30ml (2 tbsp) Parmesan, finely grated

1 garlic clove, peeled

10ml (2 tsp) fresh lemon juice

125ml (1/2 cup) extra virgin olive oil

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 baby marrow, thinly sliced lengthways and pan-fried until golden, to serve handful baby broccoli florets, blanched for 1 minute, to serve

How to do it

1. For the soup, heat the olive oil in a deep saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and celery, and sauté, stirring frequently, until the onion becomes translucent, about 10 minutes. Take care not to brown. Add the fennel, lemon zest and bay leaf and cook for a further 5 minutes. Add the white wine and increase the heat to medium-high. Reduce the wine until it evaporates and the onion begins to sizzle again. Add the stock and reduce the heat to low. Leave to simmer, about 1 hour.

2. For the baked ricotta, preheat the oven to 160°C. Break the ricotta into rough chunks and place on a baking tray. Evenly scatter the lemon zest and marjoram over the ricotta. In a bowl, combine the garlic and olive oil and drizzle the mixture over the ricotta. Season and bake until the cheese is golden brown, 35 – 40 minutes.

3. For the pesto, place the rocket, pine nuts, Parmesan and garlic in a food processor and blend until a smooth paste forms. Mix in the lemon juice and olive oil, season to taste and set aside.

4. Skim any foamy bits from the soup. Increase the heat to high, add the peas, snow peas and herbs, and bring to a boil. Serve immediately topped with the golden pan-fried courgettes, broccoli florets, baked ricotta and a spoonful of pesto.

Warm salad of chickpeas, chilli, feta and garlic

Serves 4 or makes 1 large bowl EASY 45 mins

The flavour combinations

100ml olive oil

3 red chillies, seeded and finely sliced

12 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped

3 red onions, finely diced

150ml cider vinegar

2 tins chickpeas, drained and rinsed

small handful fresh coriander leaves, roughly chopped

small handful fresh flat-leaf parsley

leaves + extra, to garnish

5 spring onions, sliced

small handful fresh mint leaves,

roughly chopped

125ml (1/2 cup) extra virgin olive oil

170g feta, cut into rounds

salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

15 cherry tomatoes, halved, seasoned and baked for 20 minutes at 180°C,

to serve

zest of 1 lemon, to garnish

How to do it

1. Heat the 100ml olive oil in a saucepan over high heat. Add the chillies, garlic and onions, and cook, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, 5 minutes. Add the vinegar and boil until evaporated, about 2 minutes.

2. Place the chickpeas in a large bowl and add the onion mixture while still warm. Add the coriander, parsley, spring onions, mint and extra virgin olive oil, and mix well. Leave the mixture to sit, about 15 minutes, before giving it another stir.

3. Serve the chickpea salad topped with a feta round. Drizzle with leftover dressing and season to taste. Garnish with fresh parsley, cherry tomatoes and lemon zest.

Parmesan-battered chicken breast with green bean ‘gremolata’

Serves 4 EASY 45 mins

The flavour combinations

Chicken breasts

1 egg, beaten

80g Parmesan, grated

sea salt and freshly ground black

pepper, to taste

extra virgin olive oil, to fry

unsalted butter, to fry

4 chicken breasts, sliced into strips

60ml (1/4 cup) cake flour

Green bean ‘Gremolata’

600g fine green beans

60ml (1/4 cup) pumpkin seeds

10ml (2 tsp) garlic, crushed

zest of 1 lemon

small handful fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped

small handful Parmesan shavings

1 avocado, peeled and sliced

37,5ml (2 1/2 tbsp) extra virgin olive oil

salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

fresh microherbs, to garnish

How to do it

1. For the chicken breasts, mix together in a bowl the beaten egg, Parmesan and seasoning until combined.

2. In a frying pan over high heat, heat a little olive oil and butter together. Coat the chicken pieces lightly in flour, dip into the batter mixture and pan-fry until golden. Keep warm without drying out.

3. For the ‘gremolata’, bring a pot of water to a boil. Add the green beans and blanch, keeping them crunchy, about 2 minutes. Remove, refresh in cold water and pat dry.

4. Place the pumpkin seeds in a dry pan and toast over low heat until lightly brown, 5 minutes. Set aside.

5. In a bowl, toss together the garlic, lemon zest, parsley, Parmesan and pumpkin seeds. Set aside.

6. Heat the beans in a pan over medium heat, turning until warmed through. Remove from heat, add the gremolata and the chicken pieces and toss well.

7. To assemble, place slices of avocado on a plate and top with the chicken and green bean ‘gremolata’. Season and garnish with fresh microherbs.

Warm salad of beef fillet with a beetroot, broccoli, baby marrow and baby spinach salad with kale pesto

Serves 4 EASY 55 mins

The flavour combinations

1 x 1kg mid beef fillet, trimmed

olive oil, to brush

salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Kale Pesto

8 garlic cloves, peeled

1kg fresh kale leaves

small handful fresh flat-leaf parsley

leaves, roughly chopped

500ml (2 cups) olive oil + extra,

if desired 3 baby marrows, sliced

2 medium-sized raw beetroots, peeled and diced

220g raw almonds, skin on

115g Parmesan, finely grated

Salad

4 garlic cloves, peeled

150ml cider vinegar

2,5ml (1/2 tsp) salt

2,5ml (1/2 tsp) cracked black pepper

350ml olive oil

4 large handfuls baby spinach, washed and finely shredded

12 broccoli florets

How to do it

1. Cut the fillet into 4 equal pieces and let it reach room temperature before cooking it. Heat up a grilling skillet or a griddle pan to high heat. Lightly oil the fillet on the cut sides, season and cook to your liking.

2. For the kale pesto, place the garlic, kale, parsley, olive oil and almonds in a food processor, and blend to a coarse paste. Stir in the Parmesan. Add more olive oil to reach the consistency you desire.

3. For the salad, add the garlic, vinegar, salt, pepper and olive oil to a food processor, and blitz, 30 seconds. Pour into a large bowl.

4. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, add the baby spinach, broccoli florets and baby marrows, and cook, 1 minute. Drain through a colander. Tip the hot vegetables into the bowl with the dressing and stir well. Stir in the beetroot and leave the bowl in a warm place, about 10 minutes.

5. To assemble, serve slices of the beef on top of the warm spinach salad, topped with the kale pesto.

Kathleen’s top tips when planning and planting a herb garden

It is imperative to plant and harvest seasonally.
Spend time planning which herbs need to be planted where, taking special note of bed locations (ranking sunny to shady), as well as the microclimate and height of individual plants.
Use a good organic fertiliser to enhance the soil.
Consider planting water-loving plants together. Some don’t enjoy a lot of water like rosemary, lavender and thyme, which prefer well-drained soil.
Have fun and experiment: grow edible flowers to garnish salads and desserts, or dress your indoor windowsill with a herb garden.
Confine annuals and invasive-type herbs to containers.
At the base of your herb garden, plant dwarf herb varieties such as penny royal and thyme that can be allowed to grow over the edge of the garden path.
An arrangement of decorative pots in a courtyard could house mint, which prefers partial shade, or basil, which requires full sun.