Text: Leilas Saffarian. Photographs: Michael le Grange. Article from the September 2013 issue of Food and Home Entertaining Magazine.
It’s no secret – Cape Town has a reputation for impressive local producers, suppliers and restaurants. It also houses some of the hottest young foodie artisans in the country. We did lunch!
Three of Cape Towns food industry talents also happen to be good mates: Andy Fenner, owner of the legendary Frankie Fenner Meat Merchants; Jason Lilley. owner of Jason Bakery on Bree Street, where queues circling the block are the norm on a Saturday: and Nic Haarhoff. owner of probably the most authentic Mexican eating spot around – El Burro on the Green Point strip. We managed to catch the guys between restaurant shifts as they kicked back for a boy’s lunch with a few cold ones at Andy’s place. Apart from the beer drinking and good food, it gave us a chance to chat about the Cape Town food scene and how a foodie passion can turn into a dream business. Nic was also keen to show off his craft beers and “proper tequila” – nobody stopped him!
We asked each of them to pick a course to tackle for lunch. Nic had first claim to the starter, Andy opted for the main, and Jason? Well, there was no question he would be doing the sweet.
Andy Fenner — Frankie Femier Meat Merchants
Andy was already prepping by the time we arrived with our camera equipment. Rabbit was on the cards – braised, with polenta. As he prepped, he chatted. “People have become more aware of where their food comes from, which is great – that’s what it’s all about. Frankie Fenner promotes ethical eating – knowing not only where your meat has come from but what the animal ate, caring about and respecting the animal; that’s all part of the cooking process,” he says.
Andy moves comfortably between the kitchen and his herb trough in the courtyard. There’s centainly no resemblance to any of those old school butchers in white coats from back in the day. He’s more of a tattoos kind of guy.
Describe your food philosophy in the age of ‘fast, supper-fast, and even faster food’.
“I try to eat food that’s been through as few hands as possible. I want to eat food in its most natural state,” says Andy. “When things get processed, sorted, washed, sprayed, peeled and cleaned, the flavour is compromised. I want whole vegetables, not little cubes of food in plastic bags. I also want to know that my meat comes from an animal that someone actually cared about.”
You’re living the foodie dream – is turning your passion into a career as easy as it looks?
“I started a blog, which led to a few writing gigs. I was then hired as a food trend forecaster/consultant for Woolworths and realised I might have a future in food,” Andy explains. “My wife and I teamed up with a branding and design company, and I’ve been in food in some shape or form ever since. If you’re passionate enough about something, you’re going to be good at it, but that doesn’t mean it’s easy. The way myself, Nic and Jason run things is very hands-on. I have huge respect for Nic and Jason. They don’t rely on managers and staff; they’re in the trenches, putting shifts in day and night.”
Is interacting with customers a necessity or annoyance?
“You can sell meat via Twitter nowadays, which we do. But nothing beats the experience of someone coming into my shop and looking for advice. Selling tangible products is as much about selling the experience of buying them.”
Is there enough of a share culture within the local food community in terms of supporting each other?
“The guys who refuse to cut corners respect others with similar food philosophies. Jason bakes on the day, for the day, which makes his life hell, but that’s his commitment to quality. I wish more people were like that. Likewise with Nic – he could get cheaper ingredients and improve margins by changing suppliers. Instead, he tries to source the best produce he can. We’re part of a very small club, but the members in that club relate to each other.”
Follow Andy on Twitter @andywildonfire and @FrankieFenner.
Braised rabbit on creamy polenta
Serves 4 EASY 55 mins
The flavour combination
5ml (1 tsp) olive oil
knob of butter
1 fennel bulb, finely sliced
1 onion, finely sliced
3 garlic cloves, sliced
1 rabbit, whole (the head should always be on – off-the-wagon suppliers have been known to sell cat as a substitute for rabbit)
1L (4 cups) vegetable stock
1 beer (I used Alliance from Citizen)
2 bay leaves
Maldon Sea Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 packet polenta
1 small wedge of Parmesan
a small handful of microherbs, to serve
How to do it
1. Heat the olive oil and butter in a deep pot and gently fry the fennel and onion until softened. Add the garlic and fry for a further minute.
2. Remove and discard the rabbit head (you can get your butcher to do this) and add the carcass to the pot. Fry until the meat has some colour.
3. Add the stock, beer and a bit of water (if necessary), to ensure the rabbit is covered.
4. Bring the liquid to a boil, add the bay leaves and season well. Reduce the heat to a simmer.
5. Gently cook the rabbit with the lid on until cooked through (about an hour). When cooked, remove the rabbit from the liquid and set aside.
6. Bring the liquid to a boil and reduce – it should coat the back of a spoon.
7. Prepare the polenta according to packet instructions, substituting a cup of water with a cup of cooking liquid. When ready, add grated Parmesan and a knob of butter, and season generously.
8. Shred the rabbit meat and return to the sauce to heat through. To serve, spoon a few ladles of polenta onto a platter, add meat and sauce, and garnish with microherbs and Parmesan curls.
Nic Haarhoff – El Burro
While Andy focused on the rabbit and played resident barman, Nic got on with handing out beers and showing off his authentic tequila: “None of that commercial stuff.” He passed a tasting glass round and instructed that sipping is best. He was busy with a fragrant broth for the mussels. Despite playing more of a front-of-house role at El Burro as the owner, he’s clearly hands-on and makes some of the big decisions within the restaurant kitchen. The man knows his way around a chipotle chilli or two!
We chatted about the restaurant scene in Cape Town and how so many restaurants come and go. “The restaurant business is tough – the hours are long and the nights even longer. You have to be prepared to work hard, believe in what you’re doing and love the business,” says Nic, while adding a few more ingredients to the steaming pot.
How would you describe your food philosophy?
“I believe in fresh food made with fresh ingredients and I’m a fan of slow food. We ate home-cooked meals around the dinner table every night and my folks’ legacy lives on. I do think people are returning towards wholesome food as they become more aware of what they’re eating.”
Do you think you’re living the foodie dream and was it easy to turn your passion into a career?
“My mom cooked every day, my older sister went into the catering trade, I grew up around food. I was a tour guide and part of the job involved cooking on a fire – improvisation was key. A stint at Royale Eatery piqued my interest in the operational side of the restaurant industry. Meeting Rene, my wife – an incredible chef – was the final step. We love pushing each other with new dishes, especially at El Burro. And no, it is in no way easy! But when it’s your passion the work comes naturally.”
Is interacting with customers a necessity or annoyance? “
Besides great food, interaction is a crucial part of owning a restaurant. You have to listen to customers and adjust your approach to meet their needs and your goals.”
Is there enough of a share culture happening? “
No, although it is starting to happen. The industry has become so corporate that much of the soul around food has been lost. I prefer to nurture relationships with suppliers and stick with them. Community spirit is returning: swapping ‘trade’ is often cheaper than exchanging hard cash – it’s quite old school really.”
Follow Nic on Twitter @_El_Burro.
Smoky chipotle mussels
Serves 4 EASY 40 mins
The flavour combination
Stock.
250ml (1 cup) water
500ml (2 cups) white wine
1 carrot, quartered
2 onions, 1 quartered, 1 diced
1 garlic bulb, 1/2 crushed for stock, 1/2 chopped for sauce
1 leek, roughly chopped
a handful of fresh coriander, chopped
1kg fresh live mussels, cleaned and debearded
Sauce
a knob of butter
salt and pepper, to taste
250ml (1 cup) cream
chipotles in adobo, chopped (4 chillies on heat preference) fresh coriander, chopped
How to do it
1. Combine the water, wine, carrot, quartered onion, crushed garlic, leek and coriander in a large pot.
2. Bring to a boil for 5 minutes. Place a colander over the pot and steam the mussels. Cover with a lid and steam until cooked, 10-15 minutes. Discard any that do not open. Place mussels and stock aside.
3. Soften the diced onion and chopped garlic in butter. Strain the stock and add the onion mixture.
4. Bring the stock to a simmer for 20 minutes to reduce slightly and season with salt and pepper.
5. Lower the heat, add the cream and chipotles. Simmer until the sauce has thickened slightly, about 10 minutes.
6. Return the mussels to the sauce and add fresh coriander just before serving.
While Jason plates the pud, Nic and Andy get up and congregate around the bowls of steaming mussels and rabbit. Food sharing commences and Nic opts for the floor – easy access to the beers. As dessert starts doing the rounds it’s decided that perhaps once a month there may just be a boy’s lunch.
Jason Lilley – Jason’s Bakery
Jason has a bit of a reputation in Cape Town, one, for his armload of tattoos, two, for his love of bikes, and three, for being the bread king of the city. As soon as he arrives he gets on with helping Andy and Nic. Cool, calm and collected, his pud, a crème caramel with pumpkin seed craquelin, is prepped and sorted. The kitchen chat leads to promoting menus on Twitter, something that Jason Bakery clearly does well – huge queues clambering to get their hands on the last pastry or croissant are evidence. “Twitter gets the message out there fast. It has a place in today’s food world,” says Jason. Beer in hand, we get down to question time with the bread king of Cape Town.
Tell us about your food philosophy.
“I’ve always believed in real food done with integrity and consistency, using only the finest ingredients I can get my hands on. Good food takes time – it takes two days to make a loaf of bread as I use pre-ferments and sourdough leavens, which boost the flavour of the loaves. There are no additives in any of my products. I bake today for today. People are starting to care about what they’re putting in their bodies, which is great. You wouldn’t put low-grade oil and petrol in your car, but people fill their bodies with low-grade food, which makes no sense.”
Are you living the foodie dream and has turning your passion into a career been as easy as it looks?
“I studied hotel and restaurant management at the Swiss Hotel School In Joburg and moved to Cape Town where I worked with chef George Jardine. Several hotels later plus a move to Knysna, I met Markus Farbinger from lie de Pain, who got me interested in baking. That’s when Henry was born – my sourdough culture. I got a call from George Jardine who said he wanted to open a bakery under his restaurant in Cape Town and we started Jardine Bakery. When the restaurant closed I decided to take the space and Jason Bakery was born.
Is interacting with customers a necessity or annoyance?
“I’m forever chatting with my customers and have built great friendships with many of them. You have to build personal relationships with your clients – we’re in a unique position where most of our customers frequent the bakery three times a day! We’re always aware that without our customers we would not be around.”
Is there enough of a share culture within the local food community in terms of supporting each other?
“I do; we do (Andy & Nic). I buy meat from Andy and we both eat at El Burro. We’re a small group that shares the same food philosophies. Awareness is growing and the culinary vacuum is being filled.”
Follow Jason on Twitter @JasonBakery.
Crème caramel with pumpkin seed craquelin garnish
Serves 4 A LITTLE EFFORT 1 hr 15 mins + overnight to set
The flavour combination
Caramel
15ml (1 tbsp) liquid glucose
100g (1/2 cup) granulated sugar
water, to cover
4 eggs 1 yolk
120g castor sugar
500ml (2 cups) milk
5ml (1 tsp) vanilla extract
Pumpkin seed craquelin garnish
10g cake flour
400g castor sugar
100g unsalted butter
100ml lemon juice
zest of 1 lemon
100g pumpkin seeds
How to do it
1. Preheat the oven to 120°C.
2. For the caramel, place the ingredients in a heavy-based saucepan and heat gently over medium heat until it turns golden.
3. Remove from heat and pour into 4 teacups. Leave to set.
4. For the crème, combine the eggs, egg yolk and castor sugar. Add the vanilla extract and milk. Pass through a fine sieve.
5.Pour into the teacups and place in a bain marie. Fill the bain marie with boiling water up to the level of the mix.
6. Place in the preheated oven for about 1 hour. They should have a slight wobble when gently shaken. Set aside to cool and refrigerate overnight.
7. For the garnish, sift the flour and sugar together.
8. Melt the butter and add the lemon juice and zest, add the flour mix and seeds. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
9. Line a baking tray with silicone. Take a teaspoon of the mix and roll into small balls. Place spaced out on the tray. Bake in a preheated oven at 200°C for about 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to set.
10.Serve the crème caramel topped with pumpkin seed craquelin.
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