The sleepy town of Napier is experiencing a revival in all things food and wine.
As a teenager, I thoroughly disliked living in a small town. Instead of taking advantage of country life, I wanted to be soaking up the hustle and bustle of the city and shopping for the latest trends. Still, even then, I could sense that there was something special about the quiet roads, mountainous landscape and close community. But the city called and I left my small town. Little did I know that the country lifestyle would beckon, years later, in Napier.
Founded in 1838, and named after then Governor of the Cape, Sir George Napier, the village is set among canola and wheat fields beneath the Soetmuisberg. If you visit in the months leading up to spring, the hills shimmer with golden flowers. Strawberries also thrive in the area – as does wine.
To reach the town you can travel via Caledon or take the R43 through Hermanus which takes you to Stanford (roughly two hours’ drive from Cape Town). We chose to do the latter to work in a stop at Stanford Hills wine farm. It’s here that I meet Peter and Jami Kastner who bought the land in 2005. At the time “it was a flower farm, with just a bit of wine”, says Peter. But wine quickly became a passion and Peter has expanded on the vineyards, most recently planting four hectares of Shiraz. “How could it not be romantic?” he muses, thinking back to when he first fell in love with the property and the country lifestyle.
Now with 12ha under vine, including Pinotage, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc grapes, Peter is trying his hand at grappa, although it’s not for sale just yet. But do ask for a knertsie when popping in for a tasting.
Small groups of guests are hosted on a long wooden table outside the couple’s home, with wisteria flowers hanging overhead. It’s intimate and personalised, with the kids running up to their dad to show him a toy they’ve unearthed while mom, Jami, brings out a plate of camembert topped with Pinotage jam.
Peter and Jami seem almost amused that we’re heading to Napier, which has for some time been overshadowed by Stanford, with its selection of shops and restaurants. Stanford has a trendy appeal – houses with broekie lace, white picket fences and street-side coffee shops – so it’s no small wonder that many Capetonians have set up holiday homes here.
But despite the bemusement of our hosts, we hit the road, passing Birkenhead Brewery (also producer of Walker Bay wines), followed by Klein Rivier Farm Stall – with picnic spots geared towards the kids and a selection of local cheeses available at the shop.
We meander through the Akkedisberg Pass, next passing the ever-popular Raka and Boschrivier, before winding our way through blooming canola fields and pulling into what some might call a one-horse town.
But that would be too quick to judge, as just spending an hour walking up the main road of Napier reveals a number of fine restaurants, a toy museum and delightful antique stores – the Napier Antique Shop is also the only producer of sugar sticks in South Africa! A little further afield is the southern-most brewery in Africa, Napier Brewery, and De Hoop Nature Reserve.
The arrival of Jean Daneel and his family in Napier heralded something of a new dawn in this once sleepy town. Jean, well-known for producing outstanding wines – particularly Chenin Blanc – is one of the most recognisable faces in SA’s wine industry.
He garnered acclaim for his time spent overseeing the cellar of Buitenverwachting, winning Diners Club Winemaker of the Year in 1992 – specifically for the Buitenverwachting Merlot 1991. Thereafter he nurtured wines at Morgenhof in Stellenbosch until 1999, but started making wines under his own label in ’97 – made on a Franschhoek property belonging to long-time friend, Gert Grobe. In 2005, he acquired property on the fringes of Napier and set up home, before building a cellar and planting experimental vineyards.
The reason behind the move was simple: “The land’s cheaper than Stellenbosch,” said Jean in an interview with Wine magazine in 2008, before adding, “If I’d looked to set up there, I would’ve been just another fish in the pond. Anyway, I don’t have the resources to compete with all those millionaires.”
It was a good call. Since then, the Jean Daneel label has blossomed, with the Directors Signature 2006 topping the Wine magazine Chenin Blanc Challenge in 2008.
Bar the few rows of vines on his Napier property, Daneel sources the majority of his fruit from different growers.
Jean-Pierre Daneel, Jean’s son who is presently responsible for the winemaking, under the watchful eye of his father, refers to the boutique winery as “a self-built shed” and there can be few less pretentious in the country. JP is quick to point out that the winery staff consist of “the two of us – and our assistant is the gardener”. This helps to “keep things personal”.
These sentiments are echoed in the tasting room. Its shabby-chic, country-style décor makes one feel very much at ease, and when JP pulls up at the tasting room kaalvoet in his Izuzu bakkie with the four dogs on the back, we know we are in good hands.
Three upcountry ladies for whom he conducts a tasting gaze wistfully at him as he talks about his love for the country and later climb into their BMW laden with boxes of the legendary Chenin.
Next door, Jean’s wife Renée runs The Larder, a deli which stocks cheeses, breads and charcuterie. The restaurant Renéessance, also run by Renée, is a stylish, yet unashamedly relaxed, space.
The best tables are on the wrap-around veranda on warm summer evenings. Chickpea rissoles are a highlight on the ever-changing menu that features Mediterranean-inspired dishes which make use of seasonal ingredients.
Seasonality is a common thread through the restaurants in Napier – and despite the restaurants being small in number, they are truly excellent.
Prices are refreshingly reasonable for both food and wine, so you can eat very well for a fraction of the cost that you would pay at more commercial tourist towns.
But best of all is the lack of pretention. People in Napier are generous; generous with time, with food and, most of all, with conversation. It’s impossible to leave a shop or restaurant without having shared a life story or traded family recipes. It reminds me of the time I spent living in that small town where everyone knew your name.
Where to stay
Aletta’s Kuierhuis
Tel: 028 423 3857
Located in a beautifully restored farmhouse, the four-star guesthouse is homely with old-world charm interspersed with chic contemporary touches, with all the little luxuries that you’d expect. Some beautiful original works of art adorn the walls. The guesthouse is within walking distance of the town’s restaurants and shops.
Peace Valley Guesthouse
Tel: 028 423 3372
On the outskirts of Napier, Peace Valley has a true country feel with a fir forest, a river and two dams on the property. Everything you’d expect in a four-star guesthouse is on offer and it is just a skip and a hop from the Jean Daneel tasting room.
Where to eat
Renéessance
Tel: 028 423 3724
110 Sarel Cilliers Road
Elegant, country-French décor invites you to linger. The menu changes with the seasons and the wine list, of course, features JD wines at excellent prices as well as some local gems.
Pascal’s
Tel: 028 423 3146
48 Sarel Cilliers Street
Ecclectic décor and a homely atmosphere combine to create a memorable lunch or dinner. Highlights include chicken livers in a sherry, cream and peri-peri sauce and the Provençal chicken pie. The wine list includes plenty local highlights at very reasonable prices.
The Good Food Café
Tel: 028 423 3893
68 Sarel Cilliers Street
The Good Food Café serves, as the name suggests, top-quality comfort food. Overlooking the main road running through Napier, just a smattering of tables make for an intimate dining experience with delectable blackboard specials.
Napier Farm Stall
Tel: 028 423 3440
106 Sarel Cilliers Street
Fresh bread, pies, preserves and even goose eggs are available at this cosy farm-stall-cum-restaurant. A great spot for breakfast or mid-morning brunch, otherwise just pop in to buy a fresh loaf of farm bread.
Further afield
Napier can be used as a base to explore the nearby towns of Bredasdorp and Stanford. Both towns are home to wonderful antique shops. In Stanford don’t miss the delightful Saturday-morning fresh produce market. Kapula Candles store in Bredasdorp is not to be missed.
Text and photographs by Emma Odendaal. This article was taken from the January 2011 issue of Wine Magazine.
| More info on the town of Napier | More info on the Cape Agulhas area |
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