Text and Photographs by Cameron Ewart-Smith.
Source: Knysna is the perfect family holiday destination. This article was taken from the February 2011 issue of Getaway Magazine.
Anyone who’s spent a family holiday in Knysna understands why this Garden Route escape is often regarded as the country’s favourite dorp.
‘I hate Knysna,’ you hear them say. ‘Those ridiculous traffic lights that slow any journey along the N2 to a crawl. They add an hour to my journey… blah blah blah.’ If I’m honest, I’ve sympathised with these sentiments before. Well, until my wife Justine and I and our two boys, Alex (two) and James (four), recently spent a week holidaying in Knysna.
The first thing you notice about the town is its lofty opinion of itself… or perhaps its just Knysna Tourism’s. The organisation lays claim to an area way bigger than the municipal boundary of the town: an area extending from The Crags past Plettenberg Bay, inland to Rheenendal and the Outeniqua Mountains, and west towards George. If Knysna were an empire, the Eastern Cape would be nervous.
This stretch of the Garden Route is packed with exciting things to do and see. You’ll never wonder what there is to do, but rather scratch your head deciding what to do next.
What’s more, there are loads of accommodation options to suit all pockets and interests – from urban chic to rustic camping.
Often the first thing people think about when they hear Knysna is the lagoon. It’s little wonder, as this is one of the town’s dominant features. No matter where you are, you have the feeling you’re on the water’s edge. It’s the backdrop to almost every view in town and the number-one play park where you and your kids can paddle, sail, take long, boozy cruises (leave the young ones with a sitter) and even hire houseboats if you have a nautical bent.
Knysna’s other big attraction is, of course, the magnificent Knysna Forest. Do not miss an opportunity to head inland when the weather’s not great for the beaches or lagoon. Amazingly, this was the highlight of my kids’ visit. It’s no mean feat, as they had already spent the day with monkeys, visited the big cats at Tenikwa and even fed elephants. It left me wondering why they found the forest so intriguing. Who knows if it was the sheer size of the trees or the mystery of the undergrowth. Whatever the reason, my family was certainly enchanted by the ‘jungles’ that drape themselves round Knysna’s shoulders.
Great attractions for kids (of all ages)
Monkeyland
This primate centre at The Crags is a hit with kids. Housing 15 different species (ranging from diminutive squirrel monkeys to lemurs and ape species: white-handed gibbon, or Lar gibbon), the fenced sanctuary occupies a wonderful stretch of indigenous forest. Don’t miss the walking tours departing from reception every half an hour. The primates are free to roam, are incredibly habituated to humans and fed at feeding platforms, so great sightings and pictures are practically guaranteed.
Tel 044-534-8906, email, website
Birds of Eden
Located alongside Monkeyland, Birds of Eden is reputed to be one of the largest free-flying aviaries in the world. There are birds everywhere, including charismatic local species such as rescued blue cranes and Knysna turacos, and exotics such as macaw parrots. There is always plenty of activity, so youngsters should remain engaged throughout the visit. In addition, it’s unguided, so you can take as long as you like wandering the boardwalk trail through a swathe of forest alongside a river.
You can visit both Birds of Eden and Monkeyland at a combo rate.
Tenikwa Wild Cat Experience
Also located at The Crags, Tenikwa offers a great way of interacting with some of South Africa’s incredible cats, including leopards, cheetahs, servals, African wild cats and more. Time your visit to either arrive early morning or late afternoon as the cats tend to sleep through the middle of the day (especially hot ones).
Tel 044-534-8170, email, website.
Knysna Elephant Park
Touted as the southernmost elephant herd in Africa, these habituated elephants can be hand fed and ridden (adults R750/kids six to 12 R363). No matter what you think of raising elephants in a farm-like scenario, it is incredible to be sooo close to these majestic beasts. My brood was mighty impressed. They have a splendid restaurant with a magnificent kids’ play area if you feel like just dropping in (the elephant tours aren’t mandatory).
Tel 044-532-7732, website.
The Elephant Sanctuary
Another option if you’re mad about elephants is the elephant sanctuary at The Crags.
Tel 044-534-8145,
Tsitsikamma Canopy Tours
If you’re up for a two-and-a-half to three-hour adventure and your kids are old enough (seven and up), don’t miss an opportunity to swing through the forest canopy. Tel 042-281-1836, email.
Eagle Encounters
It doesn’t matter if you’re interested in birds or not – don’t miss the chance to see some incredible birds of prey close at hand at this rehabilitation centre. Displays are at 11h00, 13h00and 15h00.
Tel 044-532-7537, email.
Adventure Land
If water slides, quadbikes and a play park are your thing, then your family will love this water park near Plettenberg Bay. It’s closed from May to August.
Tel 044-532-7869, email, website.
1) Birds of Eden has the largest free-flying aviary in South Africa. 2) A visit to the Edward VII Big Tree gives your kids some idea of what a real forest looks like. 3) Even if you don’t walk, explore some of the roads through the Knysna forests. 4) Birds of Eden has both indigenous and exotic species. 5) Black-and-white ruffed lemur at Monkeyland. 6) There are a number of forest hikes around Diepwalle Camping Decks. 7) You can interact at close quarters with elephants at Knysna Elephant Park. 8 ) Exploring the rock pools near the car park at East Head. 9) Visitors get close to cheetahs at Tenikwa Wildlife Awareness Centre.
Two of these attractions were enough for my boys and they wanted to get back to the beach. It’s definitely worth making two trips to The Crags.
Knysna has a range of kid-friendly restaurants and events. If you don’t want to stray too far, the Waterfront area has a number of family eateries, from Spur to Panarottis.
Try The East Head Cafe, which is open for breakfast and lunch and has a great outside play section perfect for tykes. tel 044-384-0933, website.
The Bell at Belvidere Manor, which is an old English pub with outside seating in a garden, was highly recommended tel 044-387-1055, website.
A little further afield, on the road to Rheenendal, try Redbarn Restaurant and Country Store, which serves fantastic food and has a wonderful play area for young ones. cell 082-739-0962.
On the same road is Totties Eatery (tel 044-389-0200). If markets are more your thing, Timberlake Farm Stall has a ‘fantasy garden’, barn and kids’ activity programme over weekends.
Another option is the Montessori Friday Market, which is great fun for families. There are food stalls and the picnic setting is equally popular with locals and holidaymakers. Open from 16h00 to 20h00 every Friday afternoon (www.thefriday-market.co.za).
1) The kids loved the jungle gym at Red Barn outside town on the way to Rheenendal. 2 & 3) East Head Cafe is superbly sited and open for breakfast and lunch. 4) Diepwalle Camping Decks allow you to ‘camp’ while surrounded by indigenous forest. 5) Woodbourne Resort has fantastic camping spots and comfortable cottages. 6, 7 & 8 ) Lake Brenton Holiday Resort has spectacular facilities for children and adults alike.
Family tip: Don’t miss an opportunity to explore the beach at Bollard Bay on Leisure Isle.
Quick Map of attractions
Travel planner
How to get there
Knysna is 65 km from George and 30 km from Plettenberg Bay along the N2.
Driving from Gauteng is a long slog (1 200-odd km) and is best split into two days. The quickest route is the N1 south to Colesberg and then branch off onto the N9. The gravel shortcut over Prince Alfred’s Pass is highly recommended.
From Cape Town, follow the N2 east through Mossel Bay. It’s a journey of about 500 km. If you’re keen on a slightly quieter but longer route, take the N1 to Worcester and then the R60 and R62 through Robertson and Montagu before joining the N2 at Heidelberg or Riversdale.
From Durban, take the N2 west for about 1 065 km.
Where to stay
Lake Brenton Holiday Resort: It’s on the west side of the Knysna Lagoon and a perfect family spot where kids are torn between trampolines, the pool, jungle gyms and more.
Tel 044-381-0060, email.
Woodbourne Resort: This family resort is close to the Heads and beaches of Leisure Isle.
• Diepwalle Camping
Decks: If camping in the forest sounds like your thing, don’t miss the opportunity to camp at this Sanparks facility.
There are tons of other fantastic places in and around town. For more accommodation options, contact Knysna Tourism on tel 044-382-5510 or Knysna Reservations tel 044-382-6960, email.
| More info on the town of Plettenberg Bay | More info on the Garden Route area |
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