ShowMe South Africa

Text and Pictures: Peter Chadwick. This article is from the December 2011 issue of Country Life.

A birding paradise amid misty mountains and tranquil natural forest.

Mist swirling around mountain tops always has a mystical and peaceful quality for me, and it seemed particularly apt as I drove ever upwards along the twisting roads in Magoebaskloof to Kurisa Moya Nature Lodge – whose name means ‘tranquil spirit’.

Passing ancient trees and bubbling forest streams, I opened the windows of my car wide so I could breathe in the fresh mountain air and paused briefly to watch a troop of samango monkeys in the trees, the youngsters pulling and tugging one another in joyful abandon as the adults watched sternly from strategic points, ever on the lookout for African Crowned Eagles.

On reaching the old farmhouse that is Kurisa Moya, I was warmly greeted by David Letsoalo, who enthusiastically showed me around and enticed me with lists of the exciting birds the area was likely to produce.

After being shown to my log cabin, cleverly tucked into the indigenous forest, and flinging down my bags, I was taken on a quick tour of the forest by David, who is without doubt one of the most knowledgeable birding guides I have met, and whose charm soon had us getting along like long-lost friends.

The undergrowth was dappled in the afternoon light and the mist had left a fresh glow on everything, accentuating the colours and smells, as we walked silently along the trail.

Our first sighting was a bushbuck ewe feeding on fruit thrown down by vervet monkeys. On seeing us she melted quietly into the dark shadows and thick vegetation down by a fast-flowing stream.

Above us a bird party moved through the upper branches and we were lucky to see Blue-mantled Crested-Flycatcher, Bar-throated Apalis, Cape White-eye (2 on the checklist on page 25), Sombre Greenbul (10 on checklist), Olive Bush-Shrike, Lesser Double-collared Sunbird and Yellow-throated Woodland-Warbler in just this one group.

Light rain drove us back to cover and, after discussing our plans for the next day, I lounged on the deck of my cabin, looking out directly into the forest canopy, and listened as African Wood-Owls, tree frogs and numerous insects started heralding the day’s end.

Rising extremely early the next morning, I walked in darkness to my meeting point with David and stared up into the brilliant starry skies where a splash of the milky way seemed close enough for me to reach out and touch it. Red-capped Robin-Chat and Olive Thrush soon started singing and were joined by White-browed and White-throated Robin-Chats in a dawn chorus.

As David and I drove out towards Woodbush Indigenous Forest we had the extraordinary good fortune to view a side-striped jackal patrolling the edge of the road. Grey-headed Parrots flew overhead in small flocks, screeching all the while and making it easy for us to track their movements.

Woodbush is the largest remaining tract of indigenous montane forest in the country and I knew that it held several potential ‘lifers’ for me, so no sooner had we stopped than I was wandering up the road with my binoculars.

Shaking his head at my haste, David called me back to show me a pair of squabbling Square-tailed Drongos in the trees right next to the vehicle. They were members of the first of several bird parties of the morning and we soon ticked Cape Batis, Grey Cuckooshrike, Yellow-streaked Greenbul and Olive Bush-Shrike. A pair of Black-fronted Bush-Shrikes then joined the party and I was thrilled to see these stunning forest birds that were new to me. Knysna and Purple-crested Turacos (9 on checklist) were plentiful, flashing their bright colours as they flew between the tree tops. Above them, African Goshawks flew high on stiff wings, calling constantly.

As we wandered along, a Barratt’s Warbler sat briefly on top of a wavy grass stem before once again disappearing into the scrub. On finding our next bird party we were able to add more Black-fronted Bush-Shrikes, a pair of Narina Trogons, an Olive Woodpecker and Forest Canaries (8 on checklist) to our list.

David then suggested we drive to Debengeni Falls, where a pair of seldom recorded Grey Wagtails had been resident for the past month. As we drove along we dropped from 1 500 metres to 600 metres above sea level, all the while passing through differing habitats and adding Forest Buzzard, jackal Buzzard, Black-collared Barbet, Brown-hooded Kingfisher (above), European Bee-eater (7 on checklist), Bearded Scrub-Robin (6 on checklist), Bronze Mannikin and then my next ‘lifer’, Red-backed Mannikin, of which we saw a small flock, to our list.

The first birds to show themselves at the falls were Mountain Wagtails, busy catching aquatic insects in the fast-flowing water. They led us to the elusive Grey Wagtails (5 on checklist) and I spent the next hour and a half crawling on my belly trying to photograph these special birds.

By mentioning Bat Hawks (1 on checklist), David had me up and heading back to the car once again. I had last seen these strange birds at Crooks Corner; the point where the borders of South Africa, Mozambique and Zimbabwe all meet.

As part of a research team I’d watched a pair of them over several nights nimbly snatching and swallowing bats on the wing.

A short drive that took David and me through Tzaneen and past more flocks of Red-backed Mannikins brought us to a stand of tall eucalyptus trees where David was quick to find the pair of Bat Hawks as they sat motionless against the trunk of a tree. He showed me the nest they’d used over a number of seasons and the spot where researchers had fitted a webcam so they could study these little-known birds of prey.

By the time we returned to Kurisa Moya, rain had put paid to our plans to head up to the crown of the mountain where the proteas and grasslands attracted the likes of Gurney’s Sugarbird, Buff-streaked Chat and Malachite Sunbird.

We also had to give the lowland grasslands, where you are virtually guaranteed to see bushveld specials such as Kalahari Scrub-Robin, African Quailfinch. Temminck’s Courser; Short-clawed Larks and Black-faced Waxbills, a miss. Instead, I wandered around Kurisa Moya’s gardens and spent a productive hour finding Dusky Indigobird, Swee Waxbill (4 on checklist) and African Firefinch (3 on checklist) feeding on the edge of the forest.

A row of large trees formed a perfect conduit for the forest birds and Chorister Robin-Chat, Sombre Greenbul, Cape Batis, Dusky Flycatcher; Knysna Turaco and Olive Bush-Shrike moved regularly backwards and forwards along it. Under the eaves of the farmhouse, Lesser-striped Swallows had their mud-pellet nests and some of these had been taken over by White-rumped Swifts that flew at high speed below the veranda roof to reach their ravenous chicks.

With dusk fast approaching, I wandered along the forest trails that David and I had walked the previous evening. A male White-starred Robin in full voice and a pair of bushbuck had me at peace and reflecting that this location was indeed special, living up to its name of ‘tranquil spirit’, and, furthermore, was run by people who were genuinely trying to make a positive difference to the environment. If ever I needed a break from the maddening pace of modern living, this would be the spot I’d come to soothe my soul.

Birdlife South Africa website

Kurisa Moya Nature Lodge 015 276 1131, 082 200 4596

Footnotes

Season and Weather

Being in the mountains, Kurisa Moya experiences cool conditions and mist. The climate is generally mild throughout the year, though winters can be cold with frost and the low-lying areas can get very hot. Rain falls mainly in summer.

Habitats

Montane protea veld and grassveld, indigenous montane forest, lowland bushveld, wetlands and streams.

Specials

Bat Hawk (1 on checklist), Barratt’s Warbler, Black-fronted Bush-Shrike, Grey Cuckooshrike, Grey Wagtail (5 on checklist), Red-backed Mannikin.

Accommodation & Activities

Kurisa Moya offers a large comfortable farmhouse, forest cabins and a cottage. Hiking, birdwatching and trout fishing are just some of the activities to be enjoyed. Body and soul therapy is also available. Local Bird Guide David Letsoalo, 082 200 4596 or 076 302 9383

Checklist

10 specials to try to spot on BirdLife South Africa’s Magoebaskloof Birding Route.

1. The Bat Hawk (Vlermuisvalk) is a crepuscular species which spends the day roosting in thick foliage and, as its name suggests, is an expert hunter of bats, which it takes and consumes on the wing.
2. The Cape White-eye (KaapseGlasogie) is a common resident that moves in small family groups, gleaning insects and feeding on fruit.
3. The African Firefinch (KaapseVuurvinkie) is a common resident of riverine thickets and forest edges. It can be differentiated from the similar Jameson’s Firefinch by its grey crown.
4. The male of the SweeWaxbill (Suidelike Swie) differs from the female by having a black face and throat.
5. The Grey Wagtail (Gryskwikkie) is a rare summer visitor that inhabits fast-flowing streams.The pair at Debengeni Falls have been regulars.
6. Easily overlooked, the Bearded Scrub-Robin (Baardwipstert) prefers broad-leafed woodland and thornveld. It is easily identified by its orange flanks and rump.
7. Although the European Bee-eater (EuropeseByvreter) is largely a summer migrant, a small number breed in isolated locations here in winter.
8. The Forest Canary (Gestreepte Kanarie) can be found all along the eastern edge of South Africa from Limpopo to the Western Cape.
9. The Purple-crested Turaco (Bloukuifloerie) is certainly one of our most characteristic forest and bushveld birds, but it’s generally rather shy, keeping to the crowns of trees where it feeds on ripe fruit.
10. The Sombre Greenbul (Gewone Willie) is most easily distinguished by its drab olive colour white eyes and characteristic call, made from thick vegetation.