ShowMe South Africa

Text and photos: Ugene nel. Article from the April/May 2012 issue of DO IT NOW Magazine.

The Oorlogskloof Mountain Trail Run (26 May) is no ordinary race. Not only are the 42km and 18km races challenging, but the route through the Oorlogskloof Nature Reserve is spectacular and steeped in history.

Winding its way through deep gorges, across towering cliffs and plateaus covered in the vivid colours of the Cape Sugarbush and large Waboom trees, the route passes massive rock pillars, caverns, rock arches, ancient rock art and even an acient burial site near Suikerboschfontein.

The 42km and 18km Oorlogskloof Mountain Trail Run races are the second running events in the Quantum Country Classic series. Both start and finish at Groot Tuin, situated at the reserve’s entrance and 16km outside Nieuwoudtville. Due to the technical nature of the 42km route, this race is not recommended for novice/beginner off-road runners, who should rather enter the 18km run.

The 18km route, also known as the ‘Rietvlei’ day hike, follows the first six kilometres of the longer 42km run. At this point the long run veers off up and onto the plateau, while the shorter run follows the Rietvlei River trail, which is flanked by the familiar sand stone cliffs prevalent in the Oorlogskloof Reserve. It’s very likely that runners will spot the elusive Cape Mountain zebra in this valley. On our first scouting trip, Cape leopard tracks crossed our path on two occasions! After the 12km mark, the route veers sharply north and passes two rock art sites – a worthwhile visit! It then contours through a few south facing, indigenous forest gulleys before reaching the higher plateau. The geology changes and the vegetation is vastly different from the Rietvlei Valley as you make way back to Groot Tuin. It’s simply magnificent!

The 42km route follows a variety of hiking trails as it meanders between rock formations toward the edge of Saaikloof before descending and then almost immediately ascending toward Spelonkop. Four kilometres after the start runners will reach Brakwater and this is where you’ll find fresh water. The track then crosses the Oorlogskloof River and for the next three kilometres runs on a contour below the cliffs, before dropping down to the river. The normal hiking trail continues on the left bank toward Eland se Kliphuis, but the runners will cross the river at this point. The trail now runs on the opposite bank and in the opposite direction, back towards Groot Tuin, for just short of two kilometres before swinging away and into the Rietvlei Valley. Twisting and turning into valleys and onto plateaus and escarpments, the trail traverses numerous rock arches and passes through narrow cracks in rocks and cliffs. The variety is simply relentless,  with pristine beauty and views to match.

Cell phone reception is sketchy in high lying areas, especially on the south and east sides of the Oorlogskloof from around the halfway mark to the finish.

Many decades ago, pioneer farmers in the area used donkeys to transport Rooibos Tea from the mountains to lower ground. When they left, they also left their donkeys behind. They have become wild and runners may spot two or more in the area between Doltuin and Granaatdraai, as well as some Cape Mountain zebra, especially in the Pramkoppie region. A rare sighting is that of the Red Rock rabbit up on the plateau.

As the route is in a wilderness area and very remote, participants need to team up in pairs and they must run and finish together.

The area is described and listed as ‘pristine’ and runners will, in every sense, experience a unique adventure!

About Oorlogskloof Nature Reserve

Oorlogskloof Nature Reserve is situated 16km south of Nieuwoudtville, between Vanrhynsdorp and Calvinia. The reserve comprises of 4776 hectares of mountains, which have been dissected by a deep river gorge that is 500m or wider in places, through which the Oorlogskloof River flows. The river carves its way through a thin layer of Table Mountain sandstone and quartzite to expose the softer floor formations such as limestone, shale and frit. It is inhabited by three endangered fish species that are endemic to the river system, namely the Sawfin, Clanwilliam Yellowfish and Clanwilliam Sandfish. More common species such as the Chubbyhead Minnow are also found thriving in the river.

The San tribe lived in the area until around 1740, depending on food found in the wild and, to a lesser extent, fishing and hunting. Khoi Hottentots also lived in the area and both tribes are indigenous inhabitants of the Cape. Unlike the San, the Khoi did not inhabit the mountainous regions, but instead lived on the plains as can be seen from their many rock paintings found in the reserve. The colonists were obliged to supply the Hottentots, who were primarily livestock farmers, with water and pasture land. These colonists enlarged their herds by various methods ranging from bartering to blatant theft. The taking and retaking of livestock by both sides came to a head in 1739 and led to war in the region of Oorlogskloof. This is how the area achieved its name; ‘oorlog’ is Afrikaans for war and ‘kloof’ is a gorge.

The Knersvlakte, also referred to as the Knegsvlakte, is a region of gently rolling, hilly terrain covered with quartz gravel in Namaqualand, just north west of the Bokkeveld Mountains near Nieuwoudtville. The name is thought to be derived from the gnashing of teeth caused by the hard quartz stones as they are travelled over in a wagon. Although some also believe it derived its name from the word ‘Kneg’, which means ‘servant’ in Dutch.

The hiking trails

Apart from the 42km and 18km mountain runs that take place annually, there are numerous fantastic hiking trails to explore. A map along with all the route options and detailed information is supplied when you obtain your permit from the Oorlogskloof Nature Reserve’s office in Nieuwoudtville. The maximum group size is 30 hikers and the minimum is three adults. Special arrangements can be made for larger groups. Hikers must be fit as the terrain is rugged and inhospitable, and be prepared for extreme weather conditions.

Each campsite along the trails has five tents that can accommodate three people in each. The starting point of the trails is at Groot Tuin, at the entrance to the reserve, which can accommodate 44 people. Camping is also allowed. Candle lights, stretchers, a long drop toilet and lapa with picnic tables and chairs complete the facilities. At the time of writing this article, they were busy working on a sustainable fresh water supply and building basic hot water shower facilities.

When I scouted the different route options for the 42km Oorlogskloof Mountain Trail Run, which takes place in May, the scenery was a sensory overload and I simply gawked at the relentless, untouched beauty. Except for my hiking partner, I did not see another soul for four days!

There are various routes available:

One day circular routes

• Leopard Trap Day Hike – 15.5km (6-9 hours)
• Rietvlei Day Hike – 17.9km (7-10 hours)
• Sailor Day Hike – 5.2km (2-3 hours)

Four to seven day circular routes

• Rock Pigeon Route – 52.2km (4-5 days)
• Rameron Pigeon Route – 52.4km (4-7 days)

Drinking water can be obtained from the Oorlogskloof River, springs and seasonal water in rock pools found on the mountain, and swimming along the trails is allowed. All the routes are clearly marked by clay tiles or wooden signs, and are demarcated with cairns where necessary.

The trails provide breathtaking views over the Oorlogskloof River Canyon and Knersvlakte. Amazing Table Mountain sandstone rock formations, San paintings and a gurgling spring all add to the magical experience. The Oorlogskloof Nature Reserve is home to a wide variety of fauna and flora, like Cape Mountain zebra, springbok, leopard and the newly discovered Afrika Clivia.

DINfo box

Nieuwoudtville is 349km from Cape Town and offers a range of accommodation options. A place worth checking out is a historic Cape Dutch old farmhouse in Sewefontein that sleeps about 10 people and www.papkuilsfontein.co.za. If you prefer to stay at Oorlogskloof, the basic facilities at Groot Tuin are perfect!

Did you know? The town of Nieuwoudtville is home of the largest succulent nursery in Africa.

For more information on the 24km and 18km trail run races, entering and directions, visit www.quantumadventures.co.za or Quantum Adventures events facebook page. participants must ensure that they have a permit from the office before the start of the race or hike!