Text: Jason Mylroie. Article from the December 2012 issue of Compleat Golfer Magazine.
Flying to the likes of Europe, Asia and the United States can be tedious and stressful, especially when faced with lengthy stopovers in foreign airports. On a recent trip to Scotland, Jason Mylroie found an easy way to remedy this by spending a few days in Abu Dhabi.
Whenever someone speaks of visiting or working in the United Arab Emirates (UAE), they are most likely referring to the city of Dubai. However, since the economic recession began, Dubai has lost a lot of its wealth and appeal, leading to many of the high-rise buildings becoming vacant.
Focus has now turned to Abu Dhabi, a mere hour’s drive up the coast from Dubai, where the capital city of the UAE is now growing daily and looks to become a thriving tourist attraction when fully completed in 2030.
Already the richest city in the world and with the ruling Al Nahyan family owning a share in every business, it’s not hard to see why Abu Dhabi is set to become a booming megalopolis in just under 20 years’ time. The region has always been destined to be wealthy, with the pearl trade starting many decades ago followed by the discovery of oil, and now the sporting facilities that are popping up throughout the sandy islands.
With what looks to be an unlimited budget for building development, it is interesting to see how attractions such as the Louvre and the Guggenheim museums are being replicated in Abu Dhabi, as well as institutions such as New York University having campuses built near the city. It would seem that when the day comes that the final piece of the city is completed, Abu Dhabi will be an entire world of its own.
As it stands, the region is a hub for expatriates from all over the world, with approximately 80 percent of the current population made up of foreigners. In fact, you will find it quite difficult to find an Emirati at work – they seem to have the expats doing everything for them!
Abu Dhabi is not what you would call a classic tourist destination just yet. When it comes to flying through Abu Dhabi International Airport en route to your final destination, though, the stopovers can be lengthy and often occur during the evening.
In order to break up the transit slightly (the flight from Johannesburg to Abu Dhabi is nine hours with flights to many parts of Europe a similar length of time), I would recommend you book a night or two in Abu Dhabi and visit the great attractions that are already open – it can be a mini vacation before heading to your final destination. Just remember, this is an Islamic country and certain rules need to be adhered to when it comes to clothing, all which is explained in the trip advisor.
My short stay in the region was based mainly on Yas Island, which is known worldwide for the Yas Marina Circuit where the annual Abu Dhabi Formula 1 Grand Prix takes place. The island also features Ferrari World Abu Dhabi, a theme park full of rides and exhibitions of the popular sports car, Yas Links golf course and a host of hotels all on one street. During my trip, I played Abu Dhabi Golf Club, Saadiyat Beach Golf Club and Yas Links, and also visited the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque and Ferrari World.
Abu Dhabi Golf Club
Known for its iconic clubhouse shaped like a falcon with outstretched wings, Abu Dhabi Golf Club offers 27 holes of golf, nine of which are floodlit for night golf, and a host of other five-star facilities. The night golf comes in handy during the hotter months of the year when the temperatures soar during the day. However, the full 18-hole championship course, home to the annual HSBC Abu Dhabi Championship on the European Tour, is one not to be missed, even when the heat is up.
The 6 800-metre par-72 championship layout is incredibly long, especially at sea level, so you can be glad that it is only reserved for the top professionals. The regular club tees play a full 650 metres shorter, but with 90 bunkers and seven salt-water lakes that come into play on 15 of the holes, the course is no walk in the park.
Described as an Arabian Oasis design, the Troon-managed Abu Dhabi Golf Club is just that, with the lush tees, fairways, rough and greens surrounded by tropical palm trees and expansive waste bunkers that offer a small reminder that while among such green areas, you are still in the desert.
Although the club officially opened in 2000, the course feels much older due to the planting of the fairways starting eight years prior, in 1992. One thing you will notice is that not a blade of grass seems out of place – something Abu Dhabi Golf Club prides itself on is being one of the most pristine courses around.
“One thing you will notice is that not a blade of grass seems out of place (on the course)…”
As mentioned earlier, there is also a nine-hole layout that can be played during the day or night. It is more forgiving than the championship course, offering beginners a chance to enjoy a round without holding any field up. Other golfing facilities at the club include a large full-length driving range for warming up prior to your round, and an impressive golf institute where full-time professionals are on hand to help you improve your game and custom-fit your golf equipment.
Apart from the golf, the clubhouse has a gym and swimming pool. The Grille restaurant is situated on the second floor and offers an extensive menu of top-quality dishes as well as a wine list full of some of the best wines from around the world, including South Africa. The course is open all year round and is quite full during the winter season between November and March due to the much cooler temperatures. Nevertheless, the facility is always worth a visit even if you don’t tee it up.
Visit www.adgolfclub.com for more information.
Ferrari World
As the largest theme park internationally, Ferrari World Abu Dhabi offers you 20 different rides, all themed around the iconic red sports cars that bear the prancing horse logo.
The design of the building, which can be seen from miles away, is directly inspired by the classic double-curve side profile of the Ferrari GT body, while the inside features the sharp reds and yellows synonymous with Ferrari, as well as the racing stripes and checked flag designs.
For the car enthusiasts, there are showrooms where you can view many of the different Ferrari models created through the years, along with a history of the brand, while the adrenalin junkies get the chance to drive Formula 1 simulators and race against each other on the Fiorano GT challenge.
A ride not to be missed is the Formula Rosso, the fastest roller coaster in the world. Accelerating to 240km/h in under five seconds and hitting a G-force of 4.9, this ride is definitely not for the faint-hearted, but will provide you with the most exhilarating few seconds of your life.
Saadiyat Beach
For the truest of Arabian Gulf golfing experiences, a trip to Saadiyat Beach Golf Club is a must. Our very own Gary Player was responsible for the design of the 18-hole championship course, and true to his winning nature, the course has already received numerous awards since its opening in 2010.
Simply put, Saadiyat Beach Golf Club, another estate in the Middle East managed by Troon, is as five-star as any other top golf club in the world, and the attention to detail when playing a round of golf here is amazing.
Every golfer who steps foot through the doors, whether a member or not, will find a locker with their name on it and a cart outside with refreshments waiting. A drinks cart is constantly making its way around the course offering cold energy drinks and snacks and, upon leaving the premises, you will find an engraved bag tag on your golf bag as a farewell gift, to serve as a reminder that you have played one of the finest courses in the Middle East.
The course itself is the easiest of the three I played, but still presents a stern challenge from the back tees, playing at 7 137 metres. The usual club tees measure in at 6 157 metres and although not that short, the carries off the tees are much easier and the fairways get a fair amount of run on them.
There are also only 67 bunkers on the course and three lakes, so you won’t be diving into your bag too often for another ball. However, hit your ball into one of the larger bunkers and you will quickly be reminded that Mr Player designed this course. The Black Knight’s signature on all of his course designs is big greens and bunkers, and this layout is no different. In fact, you might find yourself mistaking some of the larger sand traps for being part of the desert itself.
While making your way through the green, undulating fairways surrounded by palm trees and indigenous dune grass, don’t be surprised if you see the odd gazelle roaming the area. You may also catch a glimpse of a few green and hawksbill turtles, or even a humpback dolphin or two as you stare out across the Arabian Gulf.
For a completely relaxed round of golf, Saadiyat Beach Golf Club is the place to visit. But be careful not to get too lulled by the music blaring out from all around the clubhouse before you tee off – you wouldn’t want to miss out on some of the most incredible holes where white sands, blue waters and green fairways merge into a tropical haze.
Visit www.sbgolfclub.ae for more information.
Yas Links
As the first official links golf course in the Middle East, Yas Links certainly lives up to the expectations of how the original traditional Scottish layouts were played.
Kyle Phillips, renowned designer for courses such as Kingsbarns and Dundonald in Scotland, has once again shown why he has been in the golf design business for over 25 years and with great success.
Yas Links presents as strict a test as some of the tougher links layouts in Scotland. The 6 779-metre championship layout, known as the ‘74 tees’ because of the course rating of 74, offers four par threes, four par fives and 10 par fours, with the outward nine heading in one direction down the coast and looping back while the inward nine heads in the other direction up the coast and also loops back again. Altogether, eight holes run along the coastline, offering spectacular views of the Persian Gulf and the city centre of Abu Dhabi in the distance.
When on Yas Links, it is easy to forget that you are in the Middle East. The undulations of the fairways, flanked by thick fescue rough, and small, tricky pot bunkers are every bit as Scottish as those on the most famous links layouts. And although the fairways may look incredibly narrow from the tees, like many of the old, traditional courses, this is an illusion and the fairways are much wider in the landing areas.
When on Yas Links, it is easy to forget that you are in the Middle East.
The greens present another challenge, with the large surfaces featuring many drop-offs and tiers to test even the purest of putting strokes. However, if you get the hang of them early in your round or even while on the practice green before teeing off, you will find it incredibly easy to pick your line and putt along it.
The Spanish-style clubhouse offers a welcome respite for the weary golfer who has spent a good few hours in the sun. Be sure to enjoy the opulent changerooms before you leave, where the showers make you feel like you are standing in the middle of a tropical downpour.
Don’t be surprised if you spot the odd European Tour pro at Yas Links as they spend their days making use of the impressive driving range and academy, in a climate well-suited for playing and practising golf.
Visit www.yaslinks.com for more information.
Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
Able to house an astonishing 41 000 worshippers, the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is one of the largest mosques in the world. It was Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the ruler of Abu Dhabi and president of the UAE from 1966 until his death in 2004, who was responsible for the construction of the mosque, as it was his wish to educate the rest of the world who came there about the Islam religion.
He is now buried outside the Grand Mosque in a tomb where verses of the Qur’an are read to him 24/7.
The mosque itself is incredibly opulent and features 82 domes, 1 000 columns and chandeliers made of Swarovski crystals and 24-carat gold. It also houses the largest piece of carpet ever made. The entire value of the building is said to exceed $500 million.
A library is located in the north-east minaret (tower), which contains books that date back over 200 years. All visitors are welcome and there are guided tours of the mosque. There is, however, a strict dress code to be adhered to out of respect for the culture and the mosque does close at certain times of the day during prayers.
Trip Advisor
Getting there
Etihad Airlines is the national carrier of the UAE, operating daily flights between Johannesburg and Abu Dhabi International Airport. Etihad has fast become one of the top airlines in the world with some of the most comfortable economy-class seats and larger-than-usual personal TV screens. Travellers with South African passports will require a visa to enter Abu Dhabi. Details of how to obtain this visa can be found on www.abudhabi.com/v/visa_requirements/.
Exchange rate
The countries in the Middle East use the UAE dirham (AED or Dhs), which is divided into 100 fils. Travellers’ cheques and credit cards are accepted at most places; however, should you decide to shop in the local souks (markets), cash is the best option. Expect to pay between R1 300 and R2 000 for a round of golf in Abu Dhabi. At the time of going to print, one dirham would cost you R2.35.
Accommodation
Yas Island has a host of hotels all in one area. I stayed at the Crowne Plaza Yas Island, which was ideal as it overlooked the Yas Marina Circuit and Yas Links, with Ferrari World a short walk away. Spectacular views of the Arabian Gulf can be seen on the other side. This is a four-star establishment, but certainly ranks with many five-star hotels in South Africa.
For a total five-star experience, spend a night or two in the Yas Viceroy Hotel, the well-known modern building that straddles the Yas Marina Circuit. Every year you can see this hotel on television during the Grand Prix, with its unique covering made up of LCD screens that can display any logo or image necessary.
Culture
Islam is the religion of Abu Dhabi and is widely practiced. Islam has strict policies about what females can wear, and women are advised to cover their shoulders at all times. Should they wish to tan in bikinis, there are special beaches for that. It is more relaxed for men; however, you are advised to wear trousers and a collared shirt when visiting the Grand Mosque.