Even if you visit only one of the 115 Seychelles islands, there’s potential for celebrity-spotting, treasure-hunting, good eating and romance.
Emerald seas, towering boulders and rainforest… the Seychelles are often called the earth’s most beautiful islands. Locals are passionate about preserving this natural beauty and are equally keen to boast that the country has no natural hazards or dangers – a plus for the critterly squeamish. And if birding is your thing you won’t be disappointed. Twitchers flock to the islands to tick off the rare bare-legged Scops owl and almost-extinct magpie robin. Then of course there’s the luminescent ocean world below: a marine wonderland waiting to be explored by snorkel or tank.
In the 18th century the islands were a haven for pirates. One of the most notorious was the feared, devilishly handsome Olivier le Vasseur, nicknamed La Buse (The Buzzard) for the speed and stealth of his attacks. Vasseur’s bounty allegedly lies buried in some watery cove on Mahé. If you find it, you’ll walk away with gold goblets, uncut diamonds and coins which could buy a London suburb.
Other than pirate ghosts, Mahé – the island home of 88 percent of the population – is a haven for those seeking respite and relaxation. Much of the day tends to be taken up by mooching on white ribbons of sand, but if you’re seeking more strenuous activities, you could wrestle a marlin, visit the century-old botanical gardens, or simply stroll around Victoria, one of the world’s tiniest capital cities.
In total, 115 Seychelles islands shimmer in the Indian Ocean northeast of Madagascar, a four-hour flight on Air Seychelles from Johannesburg. The first settlers arrived from France in 1770, and for 44 years this ocean jewel was cosseted by France. Then the Brits took over, and only in 1976 did the Seychellois finally gain independence.
…the cuisine is full of rainforest and ocean flavours, like grilled octopus with crunchy palm hearts and lemon juice…
Wherever possible, indulge in the local Creole food. European ingredients are often hard to find, and have usually endured a long, dehydrating haul from the mainland, so local is best. Fresh, tropical and spicy (not hot), the cuisine is full of rainforest and ocean flavours like grilled octopus with crunchy palm hearts and lemon juice, fragrant fish curries and shredded green mango and papaya salads. Buy it fresh at Victoria’s small market. While food isn’t astonishingly cheap, it’s worth arming yourself with bags of colourful East African spices rather than overpriced souvenirs. Be sure to hunt down a breadfruit, cooked in the same way as a potato. Locals insist that if you take a bite, you’re guaranteed to return. If you’re in the mood for a fine, leisurely lunch, get a table at Marie Antoinette restaurant, a foodie institution in Victoria.
While lounging in wicker chairs under lazily ticking ceiling fans, a smorgasboard is trotted out to your table, offering a 360° view of local flavours.
If you’ve got time to spare it’s well worth hunting down renowned local chef Cyril Thomas, who astounds with his traditional dishes like fruit-bat curry (no, it doesn’t taste like chicken, more like a chewy, bony version of beef). Cyril has cooked at top hotels all over Mahé, but these days you’ll find him at the Chez Lamar restaurant at the island’s glamorous Banyan Tree Seychelles resort.
A winding and scenic 40-minute drive from Mahé’s pocket-sized airport, Banyan Tree is swathed in luxury. From the stable of über-exclusive, luxurious resorts around the world, the location is as close to idyllic as you can get. This was confirmed by our driver, who almost seemed pained that “they’ve got the best beach on our island”.
Built in Seychellois plantation style (lofty ceilings and winding verandas), the resort’s 60 secluded villas are enveloped by forest, each with its own pool, deck and enviable view. Perched on the hillside rocks or among granite beach boulders, each villa is reached via chauffeured buggy on winding forest paths. Even on a drizzly day (after all, it has to rain in paradise; here the rainy season lasts from October to March), the beach can be admired for its many moods. And it’s always warm enough to swim.
starry-eyed lovers can revel in amorous pastimes like champagne on the rocks
The multinational staff at Banyan Tree are expert in making guests feel like royalty, whether you’re a silver-haired billionaire or a newly married young couple. With such stunning surrounds it’s no surprise that the Banyan Tree is favoured by romantics. The resort’s personal wedding planner (rated as one of the world’s best) says most of the couples who exchange vows at Banyan Tree have chosen to elope. It makes sense: without intrusions like in-laws, starry-eyed lovers can revel in amorous pastimes like a romantic grill on the sands, moonlit dinner under the gazebo or champagne on the rocks.
If you feel like dining in, the resort’s signature restaurant Saffron is as romantic as it is gastronomically impressive. High above crashing waves, diners can experience an authentic taste of Thailand in this airy, white and coral-hued restaurant. South African executive chef Neil Firman’s light, coconut-scented curries, fragrant rice dishes and snacky starters are excellent, especially with a sprinkle of Creole spicing. Both Saffron and Chez Lamar are open only for dinner, a shame as the resort’s all-day restaurant Au Jardin D’Espices has a million dollar view but uninspired food.
Rather fill up on a hefty breakfast and while away the afternoon at the beach or Banyan Tree’s truly gorgeous Zen-style spa. Private gazebos offering ocean glimpses are surrounded by fragrant frangipani trees, while tranquil Thai therapists squeeze out tension left over from time in the other world.
The islands are a magnet for celebrities, although the Brangelinas keep a low profile and the Seychellois aren’t a star-struck bunch. The locals seem genuinely baffled by western fascination with glitterati visitors like Prince William and Tom Cruise, and are fervently protective of their privacy. “I was at the airport and saw Tony Blair and his family being closely tailed by a photographer,” chirps one local. “The photographer asked me for the quickest route to the island La Digue, so I gave him the longest one!”
And, of course, there is romance. My almost-proposal came on the final day. Having beached myself on the powdery sand after a fairly vigorous snorkelling session, a lithe local man approached me with a coconut. After skinning it on a rock with impressive ceremony, he presented it, enquiring, “Do you have a husband?” A tentative “no” was met with a darting, eager look, as if this was the one impediment to a holiday marriage. He nodded, “So you come back and visit me and we live in my house?”
Before I could answer, the skies opened up and summer rain offered a quick escape. The coconut was delicious, but I gave quiet thanks it wasn’t breadfruit.
Text by Ingrid Casson. Photographs by Roelene Prinsloo and courtesy of Banyan Tree Seychelles. Taken from the February 2010 edition of Food and Home.
| Ingrid Casson was a guest of Air Seychelles (www.airseychelles.net), Banyan Tree Seychelles (www.banyantree.com) and Thompsons Holidays (www.thompsons.co.za). For more information or brochures on Banyan Tree Seychelles, contact SA representative Lesley Simpson Communications. Call 011-463-8195 or email lesley@lesleysimpson.co.za.Thompsons Holidays is offering a special Seychelles holiday package to F&HE readers, including return flights from Johannesburg to Mahé on Air Seychelles, airport transfers, six nights at Banyan Tree with breakfast and a travel bag. From R39 839 per person, excluding taxes. Call 0861 846 677. |
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