Text and photographs by Lisa Johnston
Source: This article was taken from the May 2011 issue of Getaway
If you want to feel as if you’re skiing in Europe, but without the maxed credit card, give skiing at Africa’s own winter wonderland a try. Lisa Johnston snow ploughed the slopes at Afriski in Lesotho.
The zigzagging mountain pass through Lesotho’s lunar landscape from the Caledonspoort Border Post to Afriski Mountain Lodge mimics the side-to-side sashay of a pro skier. As the twists and loops increase in their ferocity, it might not be comfortable for first-timers to dwell on the knowledge, ‘What goes up, must come down.’
In truth, the other-worldly presence of a European-style ski lodge nestled among the Maloti Mountains’ broad back means that anyone with a will to learn can quickly get past the wobbly-kneed snow plough and experience the exhilaration of snow sports in the heart of Southern Africa.
Even when the temperatures heat up towards the end of winter and there’s little evidence of natural snow, machines spray the white stuff, crisp and cold and ready for action.
On weekends, skater-punk music thumps from subwoofers while brightly clad skiers and snowboarders accentuate the party atmosphere as they whoosh down varying degrees of slope. Fashion is a Liquorice Allsorts of brands and styles, from T-shirts and jeans in sizes ranging from baby to full-bellied adult to designer ski-suits and sunglasses.
Afriski is a popular option for people who are keen to try a skiing holiday without blowing their savings in Europe. However, you’ll also find plenty of experienced skiers showing off forward- and back-flips on the ramps.
First-timers have to take at least one four-hour lesson and pass an assessment on the beginners’ slopes before being allowed onto the main slope. It’s not as difficult as it may sound. An instructor takes you through the motions of getting comfortable on the snow in clunky boots designed for minimal mobility and clipping in and out of your skis. Then you learn how to stop, get up after a fall and turn.
Once you’ve mastered how to stay upright, zigzag from side to side and, most importantly, stay out of the way of the big guns tearing down the slope at whirlwind speeds, you’re good to go. After the wobbly-leg phase is over and you can exercise a modicum of control, skiing is awesome fun and it’s amazing how quickly your bravery builds. At this stage, it’s important to ignore the whippersnappers in their mini skis and apparel. Their slick moves and antics on the ramps are just showing off. Plus, they’ve got a shorter fall than adults.
By the time you’ve worked midway up the slope and allowed yourself to head downhill full-tilt, it’s only fair to raise your arms to the crisp blue sky and let out a whoop-whoop – ‘Watch out Austria, here I come!’
Tips for beginners
- Dress in layers which you can add or remove as you need – it can get warm during the day, but once you’re wet and whizzing down the slopes, you’ll quickly cool down.
- Wear waterproof gloves; they’re useful when catching the rope lift on the intermediate slope and will keep your hands dry. And remember to pack on the sunscreen as the intensity of UV rays doubles as they reflect off the snow.
- Don’t wear bulky items or scarves that can get in the way when skiing or catching the lift.
- Don’t give up after one try – the sport becomes more fun the more you practise and a few tumbles are an inevitable part of the experience.
- Consider visiting outside the winter school break when the slopes are less crowded and there’s more space to make mistakes.
- Pace yourself – as with any new sport, you’ll be using different muscles, so take breaks and relax. It will lead to more time on the slopes in the long run.
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