There aren’t many places left in southern Africa that can truly be classified as wild and untouched.
Kaokoland in the northernmost part of Namibia, however, can rightly be described this way. With its rugged mountains and arid plains, this (mostly) uninhabited region is the last refuge of the hardcore overland enthusiast. And now Leisure Wheels 4×4 Safaris gives you an opportunity to explore this captivating landscape.
The Route to Kaokoveld:
Van Zyl’s Pass. The mere mention of this awesome trail in northern Namibia instils fear and excitement in the hearts of 4×4 enthusiasts. Like Baboon’s Pass in Lesotho, it is on the to-do list of all true off -road fans.
And to traverse it successfully remains a source of great pride. This is why you’ll find scores of rocks at the bottom of the track inscribed with the names of drivers who have managed to make this tricky descent.
Surprisingly, however, Van Zyl’s Pass is not an especially harrowing challenge. To be sure, you need a pukka 4×4 with all the off -road bells and whistles – and the descent is made at a very, very slow pace – but you don’t need to be an expert.
Anyone with a decent amount of experience will be able to make it through.
So why does Van Zyl’s remain such a popular pass? Simply put, the track is incredibly remote. This is not the kind of challenge that can be tackled on a whim. Just getting there is difficult. In fact, many people feel that the mountainous tracks that lead to the Khumib River and Van Zyl’s are actually trickier than the pass itself.
Secondly, breaking down in this area can be quite a disaster. To say that vehicle workshops are hard to find is a gross understatement. For this reason, it is safer (and infinitely more relaxing) to tackle the route in a convoy. It is also advisable to bring along a few extras such as two spare wheels, a tyre repair kit, fuses, a fan belt and an air filter.
Lastly, water and other supplies have to be brought along. You have to be entirely self-sufficient if you travel in this region.
Kaokoland, in the northernmost part of Namibia, is one of the last havens in southern Africa for overlanders in search of absolute peace and solitude. The area is virtually uninhabitable, because of the arid climate. Only one river, the Kunene, flows perennially through the region and surface water is scarce. Other rivers, such as the Hoanib, Hoarusib and Khumib, cease to flow for large parts of the year and never reach the ocean. The water simply disappears into the sand. In fact, because of the low level of moisture, there are no true soils in Kaokoland. All you will find is sand and mineral-filled gravel that has been baked hard by the remorseless sun.
Desert beauty
Of course, tackling Van Zyl’s Pass is not the only reason to venture into this waterless world. Sure, the region might be dry, but it also offers great beauty.
It’s not scenic in the traditional sense, but this arid environment offers its own unique attractions. High sand dunes, rock-strewn plains, steep slopes and surprisingly grassy valleys merge to create a mesmerising landscape.
Indeed, travelling through Kaokoland is a supremely peaceful, almost spiritual, experience. No other area in southern Africa is quite like it. You’ll also find an unexpected variety of fauna and flora. The region wasn’t always this dry, but it has been in this state for a very long time.
The climate probably changed when the supercontinent, West Gondwana, started to split up about 130 million years ago and this region reached its current position along the Tropic of Capricorn. This long period of stability has allowed plants and animals to adapt and thrive. Kaokoland is not only home to typical desert species such as reptiles, scorpions and spiders, but large mammals such as black rhinos, zebras, kudus and giraffes.
The most famous wildlife inhabitants of the region, however, are the desert elephants. They have managed to adapt incredibly well to the arid climate. The biggest secret of their success is their ability to find water.
The herds have shown an ability to remember the locations of water sources down the years, and travel quickly and efficiently between them, often over great distances. They can leave one source of water and travel directly to another that is 70km away.
In order to survive, desert elephants also eat anything that comes along. They feed on grass, leaves, bark, roots, shoots, fruit, bulbs and flowers.
They are also willing to eat plants, such as the ink bush, that other species won’t touch and can travel 34km a day to find food.
People of Kaokoveld
Considering the harsh environment, it is hard to believe that humans could survive here for an extended period of time. Surprisingly, though, the Himba people have managed to live here for countless generations. To be sure, life for this ethnic group has been incredibly tough at times. Drought has decimated the population on several occasions and nearly caused the end of their way of life in the 1980s. An extreme drought killed 90% of their cattle and forced many to become refugees in the small town of Opuwa. Families had no option but to live in slums and survive on a smallest stipend provided by international relief organisations.
Thankfully, the Himba have since managed to return to their traditional ways. They still breed cattle and goats, and still wear traditional clothing. The women are especially recognisable as they cover themselves in butter fat and ochre, which gives their bodies a wonderful reddish colour.
Indeed, Himba life has remained virtually unchanged throughout the centuries. Very few tribes have managed to cling to their traditions as successfully. And the reason for this, of course, is the remoteness of Kaokoland. The harsh climate has allowed the Himba (and the region as a whole) to exist without interference from the outside world.
The Kaokoveld is a tough place — barren, hot and pitiless. But it is also majestic and beautiful. And it allows one to experience Africa as it once was – wild and unspoilt.
Join us for an adventure of a lifetime – click here for details
Text by GG van Rooyen. Photography: Jannie Herbst, Johan Swanepoel. This article was taken from the January 2011 issue of Leisure Wheels.
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