Text: Mark Sampson. Article from the August 2012 issue of Compleat Golfer Magazine.
Heading north from Cape Town, Mark Sampson takes a road trip along a unique stretch of the South African coastline. Naturally, his set of golf clubs was the first item he packed.
When the Boers set off on the Great Trek in the 1830s and 1840s, they hitched their wagons in Cape Town, loaded them with all their worldly belongings and pointed them north-east, in search of greener pastures. Very few considered the pastures along the Cape West Coast to be particularly green, and those who did found the going very tough indeed. Water was scarce, the barren coastline was constantly battered by heavy winds and, apart from a plentiful supply of fish, the area was void of just about anything you could throw onto a braai. Apart from the bay of Saldanha, which was originally mistaken for Table Bay and subsequently developed into a trading post for passing ships, there really was very little activity in the area.
Some might argue that, other, than the fish supply having dried up, very little has changed in almost 200 years, but for those who’ve experienced the charm of the ‘Weskus; there’s very little that can compare to a holiday spent on the rougher of the country’s two coastlines. I reckon there are two types of people when it comes to the West Coast. There are those who embrace the dramatic coastline, uncomplicated lifestyle and sublime seafood – and there are those who just don’t get it.
My brief for the trip was simple. Starting in Cape Town, I was to hitch my own wagon, point it north and head up the less-favoured of SA’s coastlines in search of greens and pastures. What I discovered was a remarkable collection of golf courses, people and experiences that should be on any true adventurer or golfer’s bucket list. The variety of courses, from celebrated championship layouts to quirky nine-holers, provides a range of interesting experiences that suit just about any budget. As was to be expected, the further north I got, I found the conditioning of the courses to be inversely proportional to the spirit of the clubs. So while the upcountry greens might be a little rough, the characters in the bar, some just as rough around the edges, more than make up for them.
Starting in Mouille Point, Cape Town, the first course on my itinerary was the ideally positioned Metropolitan Golf Club, a nine-hole course with 14 greens. Nestled uniquely between the Cape Town Stadium and the cool Atlantic Ocean, its origins date back to 1895 and since then it has undergone a number of facelifts.
The most recent was completed in 2010, culminating in a forgiving parkland layout with wide fairways and large bent-grass greens. Interestingly, the rough was planted with four species of grass, adding to its overall look and feel. Meandering along the side of the stadium, amazing scenery can be viewed in every direction, with many of the holes having an adjacent fairway in an oncoming direction. The consistently good greens and proximity to the CBD of Cape Town make this a popular choice for many golfers.
Tel 021 430 6015, email metgolf@corporategolf.co.za, www.metropolitangolfdub.co.za.
A short distance north you will come upon what many believe is the Cape’s only true links course – Milnerton Golf Club. lt originated as a six-hole course in 1913 and has grown in stature, with the most recent major changes being completed in 1995 to accommodate a housing estate. Many consider the course to have lost some character with the development, but Milnerton remains one of the most popular courses in Cape Town. With some holes pressed up against the Atlantic Ocean and others running along the river bank, expect impressive scenery and plenty of birdlife. With a reputation of friendly members, it follows the links-style layout in an outward and inward nine. If the wind is down the course can be benign; however, it becomes a true test of accuracy and club selection when the wind is up, with thick coastal bush and the Rietvlei lagoon adding to the intimidation factor. A feature is the bar area overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, with arguably the finest view of Table Mountain possible.
Tel 021 552 3108, www.milnertongolf.co.za.
“Some might argue that, other than the fish supply having dried up, very little has changed in almost 200 years.”
The championship 18-hole links-style course at Atlantic Beach can be found just 30 kilometres outside of Cape Town on the R27, situated adjacent to the coastal town of Melkbosstrand. Renowned for tough conditions necessitating the need to carry a few extra sleeves of balls, the layout meanders through visually intimidating thick coastal bush.
The fairways are deceptively generous, and its reputation of being unplayable and difficult is something of the past. Certainly, for those who might be intimidated by the adjacent rough – which plays as a lateral hazard – a return trip is advisable, since this is a course that is better appreciated the more one plays it. A little value-add of having the best 10th hole outside of the United States (as rated by Planet Golf) is surely the deal clincher for a must-visit course. Having recently changed greenkeeping services, the transformation in the course is noticeable and the future bodes well for its conditioning. The staff are friendly yet professional, and the clubhouse, with recently added conference facilities, has a capacity of 150 people – an ideal venue for functions and parties.
Tel 021 553 2223, www.atlanticbeachgolfclub.co.za
The next stop along the West Coast is Langebaan, just over an hour outside of Cape Town along the R27. The town was founded in 1922 as a whaling station – fortunately something of the past – and it is now a well-established holiday destination, offering everything from game viewing in the West Coast National Park, with its wild flowers, to a variety of water sports and, most importantly, an excellent golf course. Langebaan Country Estate Golf and Leisure certainly sets the standard in terms of facilities, accommodation and golf course conditioning in the area. It is a well-maintained and run 18-hole course, and with the design name of Gary Player and Black Knight International behind it, the flowing, open layout with its kidney-shaped bunkers featuring large, obelisk-like boulders, is a treat to play, and will be enjoyed by all levels of golfers. While the housing on the estate does encroach a little, the course remains very playable and requires some strategy off the tee to score well. The estate is committed to environmental best practice, featuring predominantly local fauna and flora and a variety of game.
Tel 022 722 2498, email golfdirector@langebaanestate.co.za, www.langebaanestate.co.za.
The 4-star golf suites on the estate have modern and clean facilities, friendly staff and exceptional rates for any sized group. You can fall out of bed and onto the 1st tee when staying here, and a further bonus is the reduced greenfees you will enjoy.
Tel 022 772 0082, email golfsuites@langebaanestate.co.za, www.langebaanestate.co.za.
A mere 15 minutes out of Langebaan is the small town of Vredenburg, just outside Saldanha, famous for its naval base, crashed fishing industry, largest natural harbour in Africa and major iron-ore industry. After turning down a seemingly dry and desolate road towards Vredenburg Golf Club, I came to a car park with a facebrick structure, and my initial thoughts were that I had taken a wrong turn, as no course-like attractions were visible. On venturing around the building, I spotted a lush practice green, and further investigation revealed glimpses of a stunning, green layout. This nine-hole course with alternate tee-boxes is inevitably underestimated on first impression, yet after a few holes even the most devoted non-believer will feel cracks developing as the large greens receive the ball and the layout meanders through the light bushveld. The course is well-maintained despite its low budget constraints, and is suitable for any calibre of golfer. I was genuinely impressed by the entire set-up. One of the first features that struck me on arrival was the massive changeroom that has all the amenities of a 5-star accredited course, with lockers, showers and freshly cleaned towels. The feature hole has to be the par-three 5th, with a green surrounded by a circular bunker making for a visually intimidating hole. With a 200-strong membership, this 22-year-old course is well worth a visit.
Tel 022 715 3003, email vredsal@kingsley.co.za, www.vredenburggolfclub.co.za.
Bergriver Golf Course, in Velddrif, is a simple 20-minute drive further north and is a true members’ course, where a sense of community is felt from the second you arrive until you depart. It is located in the fishing village of Velddrif, which may not be at the top of your holiday destinations, but should feature somewhere on the list as it has so much to offer in the form of art galleries, fishing, white beaches and amazing scenery.
A wide variety of accommodation from hotels to chalets is available (tel 022 783 1125, email info@ eigevis.com, www.eigelaar.co.za). My arrival at the club coincided with the Wednesday Sundowners competition, and I was overwhelmed by the enthusiasm and spirit during a prizegiving of canned sardines, brandy and a lucky draw, all infused with hilarious banter and much chirping. To complete the slightly surreal evening, a local known only as ‘Kiwiet’ delighted in regaling me with tales of the town and course, while a detective and greenkeeper looked on.
The current captain, Gustav, proved to be a great host and between playing nine holes, painting the clubhouse and doing prizegiving, he managed to break away and take me on a tour of the course. Although dry in areas, this nine-holer has improved dramatically over the years, and the members are adamant the course is sold on its great spirit and camaraderie rather than lush greens and pristine fairways. Certainly from my experience, they’d be right. It is enjoyable and an experience well worth the trip, and although the greens may not need a pitch fork, the entertainment thereafter may require one to enable a hasty exit!
The length the club has gone to in order to increase and maintain rounds and membership is impressive – and bordering on ingenious. The club offers a special one-month membership for visitors to the area in holiday season. Bergrivier is light on the pocket from the 1st through to the 19th hole.
Tel 022 783 0535, email bergriviergolfklub@telkomsa.net.
The final destination in my West Coast swing was Shelley Point Hotel, Spa and Country Club, which is located just past St Helena Bay and is a mere 90-minute drive from Cape Town. It is a superb destination for family orientated golfers, with 86 elegantly decorated rooms on offer and a variety of activities suited for the family. The hotel is in immaculate condition with a pool bar area that is a great place to relax after your round. The course itself is relatively short, following a resort-based trend of ensuring it is enjoyable for all levels of golfer. Water is a scarce commodity in the area and a desalinisation pump has to work overtime to keep the course playable. Marketed as a links course, you would be hard-pressed to disagree, as any ball finding its way off the swale-ridden fairways inevitably finds a sandy lie. The greens are responsive to a well-struck shot and roll well, ultimately providing the basics for an enjoyable round. For the non-golfers, the resort offers a wellness centre and hydro spa, tennis, grass bowls and a gymnasium, with the surrounding area having a number of attractions.
Email sports@shelleypointhotel.co.za, www.shelleypointhotel.co.za.
The West Coast of South Africa has an energy and beauty that needs to be experienced to be understood. Fishing villages, the cool ocean and friendly people make for an ideal getaway, the enjoyment of which is easy to underestimate.
It also happens to have unique, affordable and interesting golf courses with some of the most welcoming members you could hope to find. Its proximity to Cape Town makes for an ideal short-term sojourn for a golfer or family looking for something different.
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