Mystical forests, mountainsides covered in colourful fynbos and tinkling streams that cascade down rocky gorges into crystal-clear pools – this is the terrain you cover on the Outeniqua Hiking Trail.
Add the elusive Knysna elephant to the equation and you have an alluring walk.
The diversity of landscapes in Southern Africa kindles a yearning to explore, going ever deeper into wilder places further off the beaten track. However, to set foot on the Outeniqua Trail is a commitment not to be taken lightly. It’s 108 kilometres spread over seven days with seven overnight huts (eight if you decide to stay at Harkerville Hut at the end of the hike) and may be done west to east only.
There are shorter options available, but to do the trail justice, you need to walk the whole route. The distance covered each day is quite long and a degree of fitness is needed to complete it without too much pain. For me, the most difficult section of the trail was the afternoon of the first day on a slog up a relentless hill, mostly in the open, to Windmeulnek Hut. However, every day has its challenges, except the last one.
Probably the most enticing feature of the trail is the numerous opportunities for swimming in river rock pools. They invite the hot and weary hiker to tarry a while, but invariably herald a stiff uphill climb – getting out of Karatara gorge on day two is no exception. Although stained the colour of tea from the tannins leeched out of the vegetation, the water is perfectly safe to drink without the use of purification tablets.
Jubilee Creek picnic spot on the third day is beautiful, but also a reminder that civilisation is not too distant. From there, a short but gruelling section of the trail takes one to Millwood, an old mining village where Mother Holly’s tea room provides a welcome respite for an ice-cold drink and a piece of cake.
Much of the trail is through indigenous forest where you may see signs of elephant droppings if you’re very lucky. On day four, you’re sure to come across an amazing variety of fungi that will keep cameras clicking.
On the fifth day, the stiff climb to the top of Jonkersberg is rewarded by a superb view of the distant Knysna Heads and the sea beyond. From there, you plunge into a magical walk through a tree-fern forest.
Diepwalle Hut at the end of day five is where many shorten the trail. However, the remainder is worth the effort. Diepwalle Forest is famous as the setting of Dalene Matthee’s book, Circles in a Forest, and a short day walk has been developed in her honour.
The one negative aspect of Outeniqua Trail is its extensive use of forestry roads. However, this does not detract from its overall splendour.
Considerable work and expense has been put into trail infrastructure in recent times, with attention marking and maintenance. Overall, it’s in an excellent state of repair and a credit to South African National Parks, which took over managing it from the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry a while back.
If you have an extra two days, do the outstanding Harkerville Coastal Trail as an add-on at the end, giving you the chance to brag you’ve walked from the Garden Route’s mountains to the sea.
Travel planner
Overnight facilities
The trail huts are basic but well looked after. Bunk beds with mattresses are provided and fire wood is available, but in most cases needs to be chopped. All toilets are of the flushing or eco-loo type and water is available from rainwater tanks. Cold-water shower facilities are available at each hut, except Fisantehoek, and Diepwalle has hot water. Hiking stoves are essential if you need to cook or heat water. Take your own pots.
Cost and contacts
A maximum of 24 are permitted. Variations of two, three or seven days can be booked through Jacana Travel at 0861 522 262 or Sanparks in Knysna, tel 044 302 5606, e-mail, website.
Tips
- Cars should be left at the start of the Outeniqua Hiking Trail at Beervlei Hut off the old Seven Passes road close to Wilderness, as well as at the end of the trail to facilitate the return trip.
- Carry at least two litres of water and fill up regularly.
- Diepwalle and Harkerville are the only huts with electricity.
| More info on the town of Knysna | More info on the Garden Route area |
