Text and photographs by Emma Odendaal.
Source: This article was taken from the June 2011 issue of Wine Magazine
When winter evenings call for Port, you need not look further than the Karoo for world-class quality – and bang for your buck.
Port has its roots in the Douro Valley, Portugal, and the quality produced on its steep granite slopes is legendary, but this iconic fortified wine is also flourishing right here on our doorstep.
The Karoo town of Calitzdorp is synonymous with Cape Port that matches – and some would dare say betters – what today comes out of Portugal. “It’s not drunk nearly enough in South Africa; surprising given the fabulous quality produced here,” says Boplaas’ Carel Nel, a member of the Nel family that was instrumental in establishing Calitzdorp as the ‘Port capital’ of South Africa.
“South Africa may only produce 200 000 to 300 000 cases of Cape Port a year, but the quality is there,” he reiterates. “And value-for-money, we are 10 times better than the Portuguese.”
Carel, a Cape Wine Master and member of the Cape Winemakers Guild, is working hard to make Cape Port more accessible to South African wine-drinkers and have it seen as more than just a winter, after-dinner drink.
Stick your bottle of Port in the fridge and enjoy it in summer, he suggests, or experiment with Cape Pink Port (for which Boplaas is well known) poured over ice or even try making a Port cocktail!
Not far from the Boplaas farm, which has been in the Nel family for 150 years, is the home of Boets and Stroebel Nel, De Krans. Perched along the upper reaches of the Gamka River Valley, outside the town of Calitzdorp, like Boplaas, De Krans has been in the Nel family for over a century. It was the first in the region to receive Biodiversity and Wine Initiative accreditation and today, with brothers Boets and Stroebel at the helm, fortified wines make up 40% of the farm’s production.
Of the eight Ports that were awarded 4 Stars or more by Wine magazine’s tasting panel this month, three are from the hands of Boets and Stroebel and four were made by Carel at Boplaas (the tasting notes and the full results, are published in the June issue of Wine Magazine). Clearly there is a secret – a Nel family recipe or something unique to Calitzdorp – that contributes to De Krans and Boplaas’ domination, year on year, of not only Wine magazine tastings, but other equally respected competitions.
How is it that these two Calitzdorp farms are able to produce Ports that rival that of Douro? Cold winters with snow on the nearby Swartberg Mountains and warm summer days with cool afternoon breezes and a low annual rainfall mean that Calitzdorp has a similar climate to the Douro region. But, while Carel admits that terroir plays an extremely important role, he stresses that with his family’s long history of wine production comes tradition and knowledge, important components of any wine.
Port is traditionally paired with desserts, nuts and cheeses, but it also pairs surprisingly well with game dishes and foie gras.
How is Port made?
The most common grape varieties used to make Port are Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barocca and Souzao. The grape must is fortified by the addition of a flavourless, grape-distilled brandy spirit or neutral grape spirit prior to the completion of fermentation. This halts the fermentation, leaving unfermented sugars that provide the naturalsweetness. The Port is then aged in oak, the period of maturation depending on the type of Port being produced.
What’s in a name?
The word ‘Port’, in reference to wine, originates from ‘Oporto’, the name of the city situated at the mouth of Rio Douro (the River of Gold) in Portugal.
In terms of an agreement between South Africa and the European Union, South Africa will phase out the use of the word ‘Port’ on all wines of this style to comply with the restrictions on the use of the term Port – ‘Port’ or ‘Porto’ may only be used when referring to wines produced in Portugal. The date for the name change is currently set at 1 January 2012, but with negotiations between SA and the EU still taking place, this is subject to change.
The South African Port Producers Association currently recognises the following styles:
(Cape pink port will soon be added to this list)
Cape Port with year of vintage
A Port of one harvest. Dark and full-bodied, aged in wood of any size. The words ‘Vintage Port’ and date of vintage may appear on the label.
Cape Vintage Reserve Port
A Port of one harvest, produced in a year of recognised quality, with exceptional organoleptic characteristics. Dark and full-bodied, with very fine aroma and palate. The wine must preferably be aged for an average of at least one year or more in wood of any size. The wine must be sold exclusively in glass. The words ‘Vintage Reserve Port’ and date of vintage must appear on the label.
Cape late bottled vintage or LBV Port
Should be a Port of a single year of quality, be dark and full-bodied with signs of going tawny in colour. The main label could indicate the year of bottling as well as the vintage, and the description ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ or ‘LBV must appear on the label. The Port should be aged for three to six years, of which at least two years in oak, before bottling.
Cape Ruby Port
A blend of young, full-bodied, round and fruity Port. Components could be aged in wood for up to three years depending on the size of wood used, but no components should be aged for less than six months. The average age should not be less than one year.
Cape Tawny Port
A blend of wine that has been wood matured. It must be amber/orange (tawny) in colour and must have acquired a smooth, light, slightly nutty flavour. Blending of white and red Port for tawny Port is not allowed.
Cape Dated Tawny Port
Wine of a single year which must have the character of a Tawny Port and the label must include the year of vintage, the words ‘matured in wood’ and the words ‘Tawny Port’.
Cape White Port
Made from a non-muscat white cultivar, aged in wood of any size for a minimum period of six months.
Tastings and Sales
Boplaas
Monday to Friday 8:00 to 17:00 and Saturday 9:00 to 15:00
Tel: 044 213 3326
De Krans
Monday to Friday 8:00 to 17:00 and Saturday 9:00 to 15:00
Tel: 044 213 3314
| More info on the town of Oudtshoorn | More info on the Klein Karoo area |
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